Adam Lincoln Blog

Road to 8c!

2011-05-24T22:34:00.000+01:00

Again, i am sorry for lack of blogging lately. I have left out all my trip to Spain, which i will update my blog with soon! The last month has all been about Unjustified, and climbing my first 8c. This is number one priority. It marks a benchmark that i never thought would be possible. I have improved a grade every year for the last 2 years. 8b, 8b+, and hopefully this year, 8c.

I had a day on the route last year. I linked from the crux to the top on a top rope. My first day on it this year, i lead from the crux to the top. The second day i had lead the route in two halves on a number of occasions. Now i have started redpointing, and falling off at the crux. I think once i do the one move i will have a good chance of getting pretty high, hopefully even doing it reasonably quick.

I have made a personally choice to clip every clip bar the first on every redpoint. A lot of people who have done this route have had it pre clipped up to the crux. This for me is not an option, and reduces the challenge a little.

I have also been training pretty hard the last few weeks at the wall, doing circuits and bouldering in volume. I have reduced my weight a little, and hope i can peak sometime soon. I am hoping day 4 on the route will show the rapid improvement the first three have shown.

Update

2011-03-31T20:36:00.002+01:00

I did things differently this year. Instead of going out to cold and wet crags, i was training in doors early. 2 or 3 PE sessions a week early on in the year. I feel i have a head start on last year and my body and how i feel with my climbing confirms that.

I made a quick redpoint of Austrian Oak the other day. This is a tricky little 8b at Malham. I had a day on it last year, but had forgotten all the moves. After a brief day working them out again, i had a quick redpoint. Falling pretty high after a foot pop. I came back a week later and it went 2nd go of the day. Normally routes feel easy on the redpoint, but this didn't. Was a bit of a fight!

Other than that, i have done a few other 8a's in a day at Dinbren. The new crag of choice as an alternate to Malham. Always quiet. Weather is always good. Lots of classics. Still a few hard routes left to do FA's on. (but don't tell anyone)

With this level i have early on, and my trip to Spain next week to really get a jump on the fitness, i feel i should be able to achieve my goal of the year and get my first 8c in the bag! (Whilst holding down a full time job!)

Iron Man Right Hand

2011-02-28T23:26:00.000Z

I went to Trowbarrow today to finish up Pacman (8a) from the other day. When i arrived though, the starting holds were seeping. They wouldn't dry, so after a rethink, i decided on Iron Man Right Hand. I had already done Iron Man a year or so ago, and had done the new variant on Vitruvian Man. So no new climbing needed, but still a stiff link! And good training for Pacman.

Here is the footage.

Wales - Crafnant

2011-02-14T23:29:00.002Z

An early start saw a rendezvous outside a Crafnant pub with Chris Davies, our guide for the day, Jordan, Nao and Al Lee. Al is making a new bouldering film, so we were hoping to get some problems done and get get some decent footage. On the walk up the weather was good, but the rock was wet. A little worried we scrambled around looking at the classic problems, and waiting for the sun and wind to dry the rock.

An hour later we were warming up. We started with the classic slopey arete which forms part of Chris's new problem, My private Idaho, 8b. A classic three star warm up. What more can you ask for. After that we hopped on Chris Doyle's classic, Wonderwall. He did this back in the day, and gave it V7, but others think it is harder. There has been a hold breakage which people think might make it harder. Me, Jord and Cookie,(who has just turned up with Emma) all flash the problem. None of us are shy of the crimp and all think V8/7b. Thoughts of others are 7b+ is more fitting. Whatever, its a classic problem. Emma also does it, only needing to get through the crux crimp move once, and styled the top.

After this we jump on Cruella. A Mark Katz problem, also from back in the day. After a few goes, i am falling off the crux, until Jordan comes along and flashes it with a simpler sequence. Typical. I dispatch next go. Another V8/7b?

I go for a look round the corner at the classic V11, special K. Dave Nodder put it up last year. Its a rising traverse line along some impeccable crimps and slopers. A quick flash go See's me pinging off the crux due to a damp hold. More chalking, and a few goes later, i find myself past the crux, and ready to cruise home to victory, when Al, filming decides to try and knock me off the problem by whacking me in the face with a camera! He has it on the end of a boom, and as he is looking at whats going on through a LCD screen, he can't tell how far he is away from the rock. Anyway, he slips, camera boom whacks me in the head, but
i wasn't for letting go and shake my way to the top. Not sure about the grade on this.Took me about 15 mins. I guess V11 traverse is different to V11 bloc, so not sure if its worth the grade, Its def soft, but what is more important is its brilliant, better than Jerrys Roof! Jordan flashes it and Cookie does it shortly after.

(Pic of Special K, Copyright Naomi Buys)

Getting tired, me and Jord still want to do Grasswind. A Danny Cattell problem which he gave V9. We both have some good goes, but don't quite stick the crux throw. Its a bit scary, and we are tired. The rock is also sharp. Anyway, i do it, and then Jordan, inevitably does it next go, not wanting to be out done. ;-)

So a top day had by all, Al got some good footage, we all did some classic problems. I write this sat in the CC hut in Llanberis trying to decide if i should wait out the rain and climb at Porth Ysgo tomorrow, or go home and come back midweek when the weather looks better. I have a project i want to do near Porth Ysgo, which will be a classic 3 star line, somewhere around the V10 range. A little highball though. I also want to have a look at a couple of other classic established problems, Porn makes me horny, V10, Tide of dreams, V10, and a slopey V11 i forget the name of.

What to do. Tempted to go home and get in my own bed. Might go via V12 in Llanberis and pick up the guide i need for Tunnel Walls in Scotland. This is on the list of places i want to visit in the next few months. Hopefully get a visit in before the nasty biting flys arrive!

Out for now.

Scotland trip - Day 2 - Mooching

2011-02-07T11:07:00.000Z

After the hard day Saturday, it was a leisurely start to the day Sunday. Chatting in the CC hut and taking our time. Plan was to head onto Annoch Mor, which requires a tiny walk in if you get the Gondola up from Nevis Range ski centre. Anyway, on arrival it was windy as hell, and visibility looked bad. We decided to go for a coffee in Fort William and make a decision. We needed to kill time anyway, as if we ended up snowboarding, lift pass gets dirt cheap at mid day.

That is in fact what we end up doing. Visibility looks clearer as we get back to the car park. So we buy our tickets and head up. I am used to European and American resorts, so all the T-bars and poma's are a bit of a shock. Ouch! The other thing i was soon to find out about was all the ice on the runs. Visibility came and went during the day, and so we alternated between staying below the cloud when it was crap, and getting up higher on the clearer periods.

Wasn't a bad day, fun was had by all, and i practiced some jumps. One below is about the best shot, but quite a bit of lens fog and me attempting to fly (What was i doing!?) mean it isn't the best pic. Sums up Scotland snowboarding though!

Lists

2011-02-04T11:07:00.000Z

Right, no one likes a list better than me. What better way to get motivated in these wet and windy times. This year i want to do more trad. I did a bit last year, but want to get some longer trips to pembroke and wales in this year.

So trad list, of the harder stuff i want to do

North Wales
Ressurection E4
Lord E6
Jub Jub Bird E6
E5 that goes under Dreams and screams
Lots of the E5's on main cliff
Wreath of a deadly nightshade (E6/7)
Long Run Direct E6
Strawberries E6/7

Scotland
Some Scottish ticks from Extreme Rock

Lakes
Dawes Rides a Shovel Head E8
Hells Wall E6
Bleed In Hell E8
Shere Khan E5
Lost Horizons E5
Bucket City E5
Fast and furious E6

Pembroke
Anything!

Scotland trip - Day 1 - Ben Nevis

2011-02-01T13:21:00.000Z

Well i survived my Scotland trip with Kev. We certainly packed it in. Maybe not in a Paul reeve packing it in, but we felt knackered after both days! Only took a couple of beers and a burger (Hope you are not reading this Solly!) to finish us off Saturday night after a long day on the Ben. (4.30am start, up at the route for day break).

Anyway, 8.30am finds us kitting up at the bottom of Apache, a new route just to the right of Sioux Wall. Now i have never done a mixed route before so this 8/9 might have been a bit too much for a first. I set off leading the first pitch, and spend 20 minutes trying to get some gear in, which i eventually do, but am not happy with it. I piss around for another 5 minutes, and can sense i am out of my depth. I kind of suggested my feelings to Kev, who had since realised the madness of the idea already. So i down climb with difficulty back to the ground and we decide on another route. Just across the way, a route called Darth Vader. Slightly easier at Vii 8. The first pitch was a better intro to mixed climbing and i was getting used to the different techniques needed to gain vertical metres. The next pitch, and the pitch after that involved every bit of cunning i could summon to squirm up a snowy icy offwidth with a large overhang to overcome on the crux pitch. Crawling onto the top snow ledge, after all the difficulties, gripped/scared/exhausted (and i was only seconding) i felt relieved it was over. Though in a 'that was brilliant' kind of way you only get with climbing... We then did a quick solo of number 3 gully to get on top of The Ben for a great clear view with the sun on our backs.

Kev on the crux pitch of Dath Vader (Copyright Bob Wightman)

The whole day was topped off by not even getting benighted! We got back to the car without even needing to get the head torch out. My first mixed route in the bag, i was itching for more now. I saw so many classic lines i just can't wait to do.

Babylon
The Secret
To those who wait
Sioux Wall
Orion Face Direct

The Ben

2011-01-28T10:30:00.000Z

Been a boring few weeks. Training training training. Getting fit for the routes season. I'd given up any ideas of getting any more ice done when i get a phone call from Kev Avery looking for a partner for a weekend in Scotland. Now i have heard Kev is a bit handy, so jumped at the chance. I think if i am ever to succeed in my all the 8's challenge, i need to do it in Scotland. More choice, better conditions, and much much more satisfying day out. Just getting to the crag takes 2.5/3 hours. Eeek!

How can you not get excited by this!

Three in the snow

2010-12-19T17:43:00.000Z

Fun hour in the snow at Longridge today. Repeated some classics on the circuit.

Three in the snow from Adam Lincoln on Vimeo.

Bottom Line

2010-11-16T13:55:00.000Z

Me and Jordan went to try the Bottom Line today at Brimham. Its a very strenuous E7 6c. We both had very good flash goes, both getting right to the last couple of moves. Jordan dispatched it next go, in true hero style, where i just faded at the same point as the flash. I think the 500 sit ups, 500 push ups and the 250 pull ups the night before had taken their toll. I will have to return, but here is a vid of Jordan crushing it.

The Bottom Line from Adam Lincoln on Vimeo.

Giggling Crack!

2010-11-08T13:46:00.002Z

Vid of mine and Jordans recent tussle!

Giggling Crack from Adam Lincoln on Vimeo.

Balance It Is

2010-10-26T12:44:00.002+01:00

Short clip i just made of Jordan flashing Balance It Is.
Enjoy.

Balance It Is from Adam Lincoln on Vimeo.

A day out at Curbar

2010-10-23T18:37:00.000+01:00

Short video from Thursday. Some fine ascents by Jordan and Pete. Reason for the bad style of ascent on Slackers for me was i top toped it years back, so had a quick look again on a toppy before the send. No point sticking your neck out on something you top roped years back! Also was useful to demo it for the other two.

Curbar Day Out from Adam Lincoln on Vimeo.

Northumberland Vid

2010-10-18T20:14:00.000+01:00

As promised

A weekend in Northumberland from Adam Lincoln on Vimeo.

The County

2010-10-17T22:29:00.001+01:00

Just had an ace weekend in the county. Filmed all the problems i did, so shall upload a film soon!

Ticklist

Transformer LH font 7c
The Yorkshireman font 7b+
Vienna font 7b+
Sprung font 7c
Staggered font 7b
Manta LH font 7b

Unjustified

2010-08-18T20:57:00.003+01:00

First day on Unjustified today. Apart from Evolution, this is the hardest route i have ever been on. After three goes up the route, i had linked the main section of the route. From the big undercuts, to the belay. The bottom bit is Something Stupid, and goes at a tricky 7b. Probably 7b+ by the time you get to the big undercuts. So. Do the numbers add up? 7b+ into an 8a/+. Who knows. The two sections don't feel that hard. Once linkage starts though, i am sure it is going to feel like a whole new kettle of fish. I am very psyched though, no other route has motivated me so much.

Can i make the step up from 8b to 8c in a year? Who knows. I am happy with 8b+ this year, if i can get an 8c as well, all the better!

It is a bit early really for Malham. In the sun during the day, conditions are bad. I really just wanted to get a feel for what i needed to do. I got a bit more out of the day than i was expecting. A lot more. Looking forward to the journey on this route! How ever long it may take.

8b Plus!

2010-08-14T21:10:00.000+01:00

Dr Crmp. Finally. The route has given me lots of ups and's downs. I have learnt a lot from it. I feel like so much pressure has built up to do the route, and it was becoming a bit of a drag to get on it.

The main thing was my sequence. No one else does the crux like me, and wasn't even sure i could link the route with my method. I could pull on at the crux,doing the moves, and climb to the belay. Adding the french whatever it is start into it took too much of an edge off me. Until the other day. I went from the ground to the second crux, and fell off. I breakthrough. I still wasn't sure i could do it again. The funny thing is with climbing though, if you can do something once, no matter how improbable it feels, you can do it again. It has made me mentally stronger doing the route.

The next issue was it was very conditions dependent. The pocket is prone to seeping. It needs to be cold, but not that cold. You only get 3 or 4 redpoints a session due to the nature of one of the holds. You also lose fitness quickly on it as the crux is fairly low, so redpoints end early. This means you have to keep you PE, and strength topped up on other routes. This leads the mind to be distracted by other projects.

But anyway, it is done. I can move on. I have other fish to fry now. I have Northern Exposure to finish off from last year. This is a similar 8b+ to Dr Crimp, but the crux is at the top. I need to wait for good cold temps on this too. My other goals for Kilnsey this year, are Indian Summer, and Full Tilt. Both of which i have had a couple of days on. I feel light at the moment, so think i will concentrate on Full Tilt. Indian Summer might evade me this year. I also have the idea that i might get 8c this year too.

On top of this, I am going to open my account on Unjustified as soon as it is cold enough for Malham. It might be a bit much for me this year. Sensible people might want to do a few more 8b+'s first, but hey, if you don't push yourself, you can't experience failure.

So so close...

2010-08-11T15:25:00.001+01:00

So Kilnsey is pretty dry again. Just bottom of Full Tilt now a tad damp. Everyone is Ticking!

Jenny Wooward cruised 'The Thumb' yesterday. Karen Magog and Steve Crowe also ticking it. Basia added 'The Bulge' to her recent spell of good form. Others she has ticked include 'The Ashes' and 'Urgent Action'. She is now on Ecstasy, and looking good on her first go up it. Adam Jeewooth almost did Indian Summer first redpoint yesterday. He warmed up on Sticky wicket, but just kept going. He didn't bother having another redpoint, he gets bored very easily ;-)

As for me, well, i fell off one move from victory on Dr Crimp yesterday. So, my elusive 8b+ tick is close. I have a feeling it won't fall next go though. Far from it. People seem to think i had done it last week, not sure how that came about! Its not as if my clips came out of the route... Think i am going to go back Friday, and wait till lateish for the good temps. Both my projects at the moment require good temps to maximise chances of success.

Blog Changes

2010-07-20T13:14:00.000+01:00

Going to try and make this blog a bit more useful in future!

Going to add crag conditions in Yorkshire, when possible. Also any ascents of note. People love reading about what others are up to. Or at least i do!

Kilnsey Conditions Update - Monday 20th July

2010-07-20T13:08:00.001+01:00

Most stuff dry. Top pitch of Claws looked a bit wet. Lots of rain as we left so wet patches may start to appear on Tuesday. Will update again on Wednesday evening.

Action!

2010-07-15T21:58:00.000+01:00

Well, the finger is on the mend, after doing a load of 7's for the last few weeks. With a bit of trad thrown in! I thought today would be the day to finish of Urgent Action. Would test the finger a little too. Had an awful warm up. I felt tired, from too many days climbing, conditions were bad, and i was climbing in a new pair of boots. First go i felt tired all the way up, feet slipping and eventually taking the long ride from the sika slap move. After a rest, i got back on again. Still feeling tired, i eventually get to the undercuts. I slap the first hold, then slap the second. Finger felt ok, i had the hold reasonably, though i feel tired reaching out too jug. Luckily i stick it, compose myself, then rattle on up the finishing groove. Didn't really enjoy the actual climb as i felt terrible on it. Previous redpoints have felt easier, but no success. That's the climbing game i guess.

So, what's next? Motivation and psyche is low, so going to leave The Thumb and Full Tilt for now. I have my eye on a bigger prize. Dr Crimp. I feel if i don't climb 8b+ this year, i will have failed. I am scared of failing. So as of the weekend, Dr Crimp with take priority till it is ticked. I feel a bit weaker than last year on it so i will start a dead hanging regime tonight, and also try and drop a bit of weight.

Speaking of which, i must crack on.

Out for now...

Ouch

2010-07-01T10:35:00.000+01:00

Season has taken a bit of a knock back. Went to Kilnsey yesterday, and got on Urgent Action. Had only done one warm up, Nerve ending, so perhaps was a little foolish. I set off and was feeling great, all the lower section felt easy. Got to the jug rest in middle of the lower wall, and felt a twinge in my middle finger. It didn't feel too bad, so after a quick shake i carried on. All the way through the jump move, and into the undercuts. I did the first move, but the bump to the second sika hold didn't go that well, i grabbed it wrong, and when i came to move off it to the jug, i fell. Grabbing the jug should be the route in the bag.

Anyway, on lowering down my finger felt a bit funny. Typical ligament damage feeling. I have been troubled with these over the years. I taped up for another go, but the tape made it feel worse. In the end i went home, not wanting to damage it any more. I have had these tweaks before and after a few days are ok to climb on. Not sure about this time, we shall see! Fingers crossed. Only i can't it hurts too much...

Might be time for a few weeks of trad.

History of 8's

2010-06-27T22:15:00.000+01:00

Had a look over at my 8a logbook earlier, and was surprised by the amount of 8's i have done. Only really been climbing sport for 3 years, bar the odd sport climbing holiday. I have managed to do 45 8's in this time. This comprises of

4 8b's
13 8a+'s
28 8a's

Going to try and make my 50th a special one. Would be lovely if it was an 8b+. Though at the moment, i don't feel i have 8b+ in me. I need another month or so on the routes i have on my list, before i will jump on an 8b+ again. I am still ahead of schedule. My first 8b was climbed on the 9th of September last year. So i have 2 and a bit months to get on my game.

While i am in the mood for a list!

2010-06-22T18:45:00.002+01:00

Remaining limestone tick list for the year . Nothing like a list to get you psyched! Sure a few others will creep in too. Also want to complete all the 7's at Kilnsey. Just got about 8 or 9 remaining.

Kilnsey
Urgent Action - 8a+
Cold Steal - 8a
The Thumb - 8a
The Ashes - 7c+
Dominatrix - 7c
Dr Crimp - 8b+
Full Tilt - 8b
Northern Exposure - 8b+

Malham
The Groove - 8a+
Austrian Oak - 8b
Renaissance - 7c+
Breach Of The Peace - 8a

Gordale
Supercool - 8a+

Cheedale
K3 - 8a+

Rubicon
Dangerous Brothers - 8a

LPT
Pas De Deux - 8a+

Raven Tor
Waddage - 8b
Weedkiller/Chimes - 8b

The Bulge/Powerplant

2010-06-21T23:08:00.001+01:00

Had a good few days ticking some easier stuff. Did the Bulge at Kilnsey after my recent tick of Ecstasy. Took a few goes due to bowling bowl hold at top not fitting my fingers! Enjoyed the route though, really good. I thought that would be it for routes with knee bars for a while, but what did i go and get on today? Powerplant at the Cornice! I met Jordan at Stockport about mid day, so a tad lazy start. We wandered down and it was hot. I had quite a few goes with some stiff boots, but kept falling out of the knee bar. I had the bright idea to try a soft shoe, and low and behold, i did it next go. 3rd redpoint. Cool route but still pretty dirty compared to Kilnsey. Put the clips in K3 to work moves for next time. Beta from Simon Lee and Rob Napier showed the way after a fruitless first go without beta! Burly, and i was tired. Next time...

Tick list for Kilnsey looking better now.

~~Ecstasy - 8b~~

~~The Bulge - 8a~~

So next up

Urgent Action - 8a+

Full Tilt - 8b

The Thumb - 8a

Dr Crimp - 8b+

Northern Exposure - 8b+

Blogging brings good luck!

2010-06-14T17:03:00.003+01:00

Well after my first blog post in ages yesterday, stating my intentions, i managed to redpoint one off the list today. Ecstasy went down first redpoint of the day. Just. I hadn't warmed up properly, and by the time i had got to the top shake i was really cold. And pumped. I had my hands on the top and almost dropped off climbing. Somehow finding the fight to hang on and clip... I had torn a big flapper so the blood everywhere didn't help.

First big tick of the year. Feel like a bit of weight has been lifted as it was turning into an epic.

I have stumped for the bottom 8b grade as per guide. Going off people who have done it and logged it on 8a.nu, only two have put down 8a+. Ondra and Jordan. Though Jordan is changing it to 8b he says. And as for Ondra? He climbs a full number grade harder, so he doesn't count.

Grades eh...

So my list looks something like this now.

~~Ecstasy 8b~~

The Bulge 8a

Urgent Action 8a+

Full Tilt 8b

The Thumb 8a

Dr Crimp 8b+

Northern Exposure - 8b+

Long time no speak

2010-06-13T21:51:00.001+01:00

Well, my climbing has been ticking along, but nothing major to report. Have done a load of fitness training down Longridge, and have ticked a handful of 8's dotted around, but now its time to get serious. Should have done Ecstasy today, at Kilnsey. Greased off right at the top in bad conditions. Pretty sure this 8b as per the guide and not the 8a+ a few people have mooted. Its taken me twice as long as my previous 8b's, and i think i am reasonably fit and strong at the moment.

Anyway. Now i have a plan of attack. It reads as follows.

Ecstasy - 8b
The Bulge - 8a
Urgent Action - 8a+
Full tilt - 8b
The Thumb - 8a
Dr Crimp - 8b+
Northern Exposure - 8b+

Add to that Supercool, when i get chance to get back on it. Also need to finish off Austrian Oak at Malham too.

I have 4 months.

Will update blog with a few pics over the next few days

Manchester Dogs

2010-03-22T11:49:00.001Z

Oh and last month i also made the first repeat of Manchester Dogs, at Angel bay since hold breakage. No change in grade. Still V11 i think.

Pic taken by John Cooke

Update

2010-03-22T10:57:00.000Z

Sorry i have not been blogging of late. Been a bit busy with one thing or another. I have mainly been training for my up and coming trip to Spain. Now 2 and a half weeks away. In between the training i have been outside and had a few good days. The three highlights include the following.

My first V12.
Super Submarine at Longridge. I have tried this a lot over the last year or so. Never having great conditions. Then got really close one day, and new it was on. Few days later i came back and it all clicked. I put together a short video of it here.

h ttp://www.vimeo.com/9680744

E8 semi ground up! (i cleaned it on an ab, so not sure of the terminology)
I had cleaned this route on abseil last year, when i was fit. Though due to rain, i never got to try it. I was intending on top roping it, as it was supposed to be in the 8a+ difficulty range, and the pegs on it are old. This year i made a plan with Pete Whittaker to go and try it. He was only coming to belay as he had the CWIF on the weekend and he had a split tip. I abbed it again as it was dirty after the winter rains and snow. Pete persuaded me to have a go without a top rope, and, being easily led, thought i may as well. Plus, Pete is a well experienced trad master, so he knows what he is talking about. Had a flash go, and got to the crux, but got scared and grabbed some gear. Pete was then also unable to resist, and had a go. He hadn't abseiled it, so his attempts were true ground up. We each had a few more goes, getting higher and higher. I kept falling off moving around the corner at the top. One go nearly cutting through my rope falling off onto a sharp arete. So, we change rope end, and i have one more go, thoughts of the rope cutting were foremost in my mind, but i push on, and reach the top. My first E8, and in great style. Pete had another go, but split a tip, so had to stop. Great day.

Hot Fun Closing - 8a
So to round of my month, i went to Rubicon yesterday. It was hot. I didn't think i would be able to do hot fun. I have tried this before, usually after being on something else. Or in boiling weather. So it remained a nemesis to me. I had a few goes on the start, but was slipping off due to grease. Then, i stuck the move on kudos, and was in. I could remember the top, just, and battled on through to the top crux. Which was ming. I somehow held on though, and was at the top, very unexpectedly! Another good day. I was more happy about how much fitter i felt. Been doing some campus board endurance work, and it seems to be working.

Off to High Tor tomorrow for some trad. Hopefully the weather will hold!

The Dream Never Dies

2010-01-26T14:28:00.002Z

For those of you who haven't seen this short film i made, here it is.

The Dream Never Dies from Adam Lincoln on Vimeo.

Game Over

2010-01-10T16:33:00.000Z

I am sat in my friends flat in Paris smiling after an amazing 3 and a bit week trip to Font. I have had highs, i have had lows. I have had amazing weather, and i have had crappy weather.

Two days ago i went to try Fata Morgana. I have been wanting to finish this off since tying it on a trip last year. Basically i should have done it the other day. I was up on the two pockets, foot on, staring at the finishing jug, and my foot popped. I couldn't get there again, so i decided to postpone my return to england for three days to go back and try it again.

That day was today. I returned to the bloc after warming up at Neils. I went on my own, then there was no pressure. I got there feeling good, but the rock was far from good. The problem was a sheet of ice. I tried scraping it off and drying the rock, but kept falling off the bottom. I realised it wasn't going to happen, and admitted defeat. I am fine with that. The problem isn't going anywhere, and when i come back i will be even stronger, and a better climber.

I have a few more problems i want to finish up i the UK, then i will be training for the routes season, which i intend intend to start early on.

I have a few return trips to Font this Spring, so the game is not quite over for the year.

In the mean time, i have plenty of footage from my trip, and intend to put a short film together. This is as soon as i can make the switch from MAC to PC. By far the best editing package i have used is Sony Vegas, and as i intend to do more filming and editing this year, i need to make the switch back to PC. Plus pocket some money on the difference in price between my Imac and a decent PC.

Lets hope the snow melts soon in the uk. Will try and get out on the hills for some snowboarding over the next week, before my trip to Morzine next month.

Almost Game Over

2010-01-07T18:02:00.000Z

Well my trip is almost over. Didn't get to Fata today, got distracted with mileage. And Sale Gosse! Going to it tomorrow all being well. Last day, last chance! We had to clean all the stuff we did today as it all had snow on. Friction was amazing on first few goes on Sale Gosse, then got a bit damp. Managed to hit the top and it stuck though, so good to get such a classic in the bag.

So my three weeks has not been bad. Lots off good stuff with some frustrating weather also. Ticklist looks something along the lines of this. Not quite a Landman rampage, but i am happy.

7c+
La Balance
Atomic Playboy
Berezina/Carnage Link

7c
Sale Gosse
Noir Desire
Vandale
Tristesee
L'Arrache Coeur
Fourmis Rouges
L'Ange Naif

7b+
Magic Bus
Sur-Prises

7b
Bleau's Art
Immodium Assis

7a+
L'Ange Naif Droite
Jete Michaud
Le Bloc A Bertrand

7a
Jet Set
Immodium
L'Oblique
Laser
Brazil

Playboy

2010-01-06T13:29:00.000Z

I have got to write a brief blog about my New years in south of france, but thought i would do a quick update from today first. After a good moderate mileage day of lots of low 7's yesterday, i was itching to go and get on Amok and Fata Morgana today. I woke at 9 to go to the toilet and it looked mint and cold. I went back to bed for another hour, only to awake to it chucking it down with snow. My heart sank. I was pissed. Not to be deterred i decided to go and brush the snow off the top of Atomic Playboy as i had come close a few weeks back. Now it might be a 7c+ traverse but its one of the best line around. See previous blog about it for a picture.

As usual i warmed up in Neils garage, with the tunes banging out of the stereo for some added psyche. I made the scary icey drive down to Buthier and proceeded to clean the snow off the top out. I worked the top out, but found the big jug at the end had frozen ice in it. So i worked a harder campus finish, and had a rest for five minutes. I booted up, pressed record on the camera, and 40 seconds later, after a bit of a tussle with the end, found myself on top of the bloc. 1 hour warming up for 40 seconds of sending. This will feature in my short font video i will put together on my return to the UK.

Tomorrow we are off to Amok in the morning, then Fata Morgana in the afternoon. Both will need the tops brushing, but bar any horrendous snowfall over night should be ok.

Out.

Slack Week

2009-12-28T18:56:00.000Z

I am still in Font. Weather was rubbish though, snow, then the melt, so been training a bit. Got ill as well, just a 48 hour thing, but that has just about cleared up. Had a good couple of days recently. Did the hidden gem Vandale, 7c, which was good. Not the soft touch easy to flash problem Neil had me believe! Maybe if your as tall as Neil. Took me a while to even get a sequence to do last hard move. I then failed on the 8a link. Another Looonnnngggg move.

Today was back to my nemesis, Noir Desir, the classic 7c at Rempart. I have been falling off in the same place as i got to on the flash a few weeks back. The last move. Conditions seem to be keeping me from matching the last sloper. After consulting bleau.info, i found another sequence and dispatched it second go today. If only i had tried that all those days ago. Anyway, its in the bag now. Pritch got some pics so hopefully have them up soon.

Not sure how long i will have in the forest now before going down south, as the weather is set to turn bad any day. Going to Fata Morgana with Pritch tomorrow, so hopefully it will be dry. May have a couple of days in the forest after the trip south, and before i come home back to reality!

Wish me luck!

Atomic Playboy - 7c+

2009-12-21T16:31:00.004Z

The source of my focus at the moment.

Copyright Bart van Raaij

Not down yet

2009-12-21T14:30:00.000Z

Went back to the only dry problem in Font today. (Bar Sherpa, but that's shit) To find it soaking. I tried drying it as best as i could, and had a go but slid off. So that is now 3 days i have been back to a 7c+ traverse now, and 3 times i have left empty handed. I should have done it first day on it, and been done with it. Last two days it has been too wet. It is more of a pain in the arse than it sounds as I have to warm up on Maison bleau woody, which is a lengthy process in these temps. Then to drive down the road to find it wet.

It is not getting me down though, as just being so close to the forest is good for the soul in its own right. It is also kind of fun driving around in the snow, not knowing if you are going to lose it and write your vehicle off. That wouldn't be good as i only have third party insurance out here. Still, least i am not in the TT!

Don't think stuff will be dry tomorrow, but maybe the day after exposed stuff might be.

Out for now.

Font - Day 9

2009-12-19T15:47:00.000Z

Still lots of snow around today, so wasn't planning on getting out. Ben heason and Theo though had just arrived at gite, so with some fresh psyche we head out to Buthier to go and do Magic bus. A classic 7b+, but very soft. We knew it would be ok as it climbs out of a cave and has a jug to finish making a snowy top out ok.

We warmed up on the wall then went straight out. After wandering around looking for it we find it and mat up. Quick warm up go with wrong beta, then i do it. After seeing Theo flash it with the knowledge. Ben also finishes it up quick, and we move on to look for some more stuff to do.

We decide on Atomic playboy, and awesome looking 7c+ ramp traverse. We work the move and get a sequence down. Have a few redpoints but fall one move before the end. Skin failing and was sooooo cold! Will go back to finish off in next few days. Its another one that can be done in the snow.

Today is a rest day after another night at the Rex club in Paris with team Pearson/Bradbury/Lincoln. Slightly earlier finish this time of 6am! Como played a great set but didn't play my fav track.

Hoping for some good weather now for next week!

Snow

2009-12-17T15:59:00.001Z

Well it has finally crapped out. It has snowed pretty heavily here. So no climbing for 2 or 3 days. Not a bad thing for me as i have no skin and didn't want to rest. I will be psyched and be fresh and have skin for the prime conditions coming soon. Hopefully polish off the rest of the tick list!

Font - Day 6 (Novelty Bas Cuvier Day)

2009-12-16T15:46:00.001Z

I always feel bad going to Bas Cuvier. Especially bad going there and climbing on the carnage block!
It had to be done though as a few things i wanted to do resided on it. La Balance and Bérézina-Carnage link. Skin was lacking today, and warming up was hard. Marie Rose and La Joker and a few of the usual suspects...

James and i then went off to do La Balance. James does it second go i think, but was a repeat. I struggle for a bit as it is my anti style. My elbow starts to hurt to so i bag it off and we move on to the Bérézina-Carnage link. Not much success then out the blue i suddenly warm up to full capacity and pull it out of the bag. Nice.

We then go over to Imothep. James has a few warm up goes and ponders the beta. Not long after he is on top of the bloc. I get a bit of pysche back for getting on La Balance again. Sun has gone off it now, so i thought why not.

As soon as i pulled on i knew it was on. Sure enough, with not many style points for the last move, i find myself on top. Good day, with two more problems off the list.

Rest day tomorrow!

Some pics so far...

2009-12-15T16:05:00.000Z

Pics are from top to bottom.

Me doing L'Ange Naif - 7c

Me Doing Tristesse - 7c

Next two are me doing Fourmis Rouge - 7c

Next two are James doing Gecko - 8a+

And final one is Keith doing a 7a+ at 95.2

Font - Day 5

2009-12-15T15:57:00.000Z

Projecting day today.

Tried Amok, 8a and Beaux Quartier, 8a.

Did all the moves on BQ, and in two halves, so just need to link them. Didn't feel strong today. Combination of a night out in Paris and the cold. Will go back later on in the trip, but pretty certain it will go.

Amok felt a bit easier, was slapping the crux sloper and almost sticking it, once stuck its pretty much done. Great problem though, amazing moves.

James nearly flashed Amok, but did it second go. This was after crushing Gecko stand, pretty quick. Not a bad birthday.

Font - Day 3

2009-12-13T17:14:00.000Z

Didn't feel great warming up to day. Wasn't expecting much, but then those days are sometimes the best.

First on the list was L'arrache coeur. Has a reputation of being high, but it's not. At least not with a couple of pads. First go i couldn't get knee bar to work with my pants as they are nylon. Second go i rolled my thermals over the top and they bit into the rock. Two moves later i was at the top. Great problem.

We tried a few other things, James did a 7c+ and had a play on Karma. Skin was thin so we called in at Sur'prises on the way back to the car. I have tried it before but no success. Wasn't great conditions but in 2 or 3 goes it was in the satch. Felt fine. Don't know what all the trouble was about.

I am still on course for a classic 7c a day at the moment. Running out of classics though! Might have to bring the A game now.

Rest day tomorrow, so James, Keith and I are off out to Paris, Laurent Garnier is playing in the rex club, so some all night dancing should shed some weight for crushing next week.

Out.

Font - Day 2 (The big two and three quarters)

2009-12-12T17:43:00.001Z

Pretty good conditions today. After a short warm up i should have flashed Noir Desire, dropping the move going the good hold before the jugs. Punt! Needed a bit more of a warm up i think.

After that i got all the way up to almost having my hands on the good sidepull on the flash go of Big Boss. Then could never get there again. Felt tired, so maybe it needs to go down first day on.

After that i moved onto Tristesse. Classic 7c. Few false starts then was at the top, quality problem. Tricky jump move.

After that it was Fourmis Rouges. Always thought this looked hard, and scary. As it turned out if felt like the easiest of the problems today. It used to get 7c+ but that must have been a gift at the grade. The new grade of 7c is spot on, and probably one of the best problems i have done in Font. High. Slopers. Big moves.

Top day. A few problems ticked - A few problems erased.

Off to try UBIK tomorrow i think. Stepping it up a notch or two.

Font - Day 1

2009-12-11T17:21:00.000Z

Only just made it to Font. I was traveling through the night and my fuel light had come on. I kept pushing on and on thinking it would last. Then, worst place to run out, on the peripherique.

Luckily an exit slip road just ahead proved my target, and i managed to coast to it, and then down it. A quick look on the sat nav found a fuel station 5 mins away. So i hot footed it there, bought a container, filled up and ran back. Diesel in tank, end of story yes? No. Diesel's are really hard to start after running out, and in trying, i drained the battery. Disaster. Was just about to turn into Paris rush hour, and i was blocking one lane of the slip road. So i rang a few friends, see if anyone was close by. But no. I decide to give it one last go, and low and behold, it fires up and i am away.

After 2 hours sleep, we are off to 95.2 as it is still a touch damp. Forecast is great for 10 days now though so all good.

Had a reasonable day, ticking a few new 7a+'s and 7b's, and then doing L'Ange Naif the mans way, sans hole for heel, 4th go. Think this gets softish 7c now, so not a bad first day with no sleep.

Keith is off to pick James up from the station in a bit so we will have a fully psyched strong team ready to bring the crush to the forest. Well, James and Keith can!

Got some pictures from today which i'll post up in the next few days.

Font is a go

2009-12-08T22:04:00.001Z

Just booked my tunnel for midnight on Thursday, so shall be hitting the forest up Friday. Got a tick list as long as my arm. Bit undecided if i should try and do some harder things right at my limit or try and tick loads of classics. Might play it by ear, but would love to climb 8a in the forest. Might be asking a lot, but we shall see.

Things i must do though are, Eclipse, Surprise, Alta, Big Boss, Hypothesis, La Balance.

So many classics i want to do.

Plus i would like to have a try at UBIK, T-rex, Amok, Big Dragon and Gecko stand.

I'll be doing a day by day blog so keep looking back for some footage and pictures.

Another great grit day

2009-12-06T23:37:00.000Z

I'll keep this short as there isn't much to tell. Did three new things at the cliff i hadn't done before. So a very pleasing day all in all. Also did the classic Gypsy, which for some reason i have never tried. Result.

Matt's Roof - 7b+
Stu's roof left hand - 7b+
Demon wall roof left hand - 7c

Nuff said. All good training for Font, lots of movement and mileage.

Roll on the weekend when i leave.

Back Outside

2009-12-05T11:30:00.000Z

Well no blogs for a while due to the terrible weather. Did manage to get out yesterday and ticked off a few new things i hadn't done before. The Terrace, the classic 7c, which is looking in bad state at the moment. Caked in chalk, and looking a bit eroded since when i first saw it 5 years ago.

Also managed and old nemesis in Blind date. I am sure there isn't a stylish way to do this problem! Or is that just me...

And finally i went over and onsighted Velvet Crab, a cool 7a+ i have been wanting to do for years. I may have pulled on before, i can't remember, but if i had, it certainly felt like an onsight. Very gritty and no chalk. Feels a tad scary like you might ping off onto your back.

Probably get to the cave tomorrow, but am in countdown to font now. Just over 3 weeks in the forest, my longest stint there yet. Weather is looking good on long range forecast, so fingers crossed. This time of year is always risky with Font, as i found out last year. But i am feeling lucky!

Some pics from today. The terrace, Blind date, and some nice views.

Signing out.

The Power Is Pumped

2009-11-22T17:49:00.000Z

Today the forecast was really good, but sat in Outside cafe it was ming! So after a tour of possible grit crags we end up at the Tor. Totally mint, it felt like cheating. Got on Pump up the power as Harry was trying it and had loads of pads. Of the ten minutes i have spent on this in the past, its always felt nails. First go i fell going for the gaston. Second same. Third same. Fourth go i was on the jug. Felt easy and i wished i had taken a rope with me for the full route.

So i put some clips in and then tied on and went for the full route. Fell off going for gaston first go, rope felt weird. Then in the rain, managed to get to jug again, and onwards to the top. Top day, and to warm down i finished off with the sitter to right of bens roof problem. Another tick in the book.

Ted also flashed the 8a i flashed the other day, The Green Alternative. He thought it was probably worth 7c+, which i wont disagree with.

Pump Up The Power, V10/7c+, Raven Tor.

Remote Flash Piccies

2009-11-20T22:51:00.001Z

Check out the remote flash pics we got this eve in Ben's Roof. On the right in my flickr preview column.

Another 8a Flash

2009-11-20T20:12:00.000Z

Though sadly again it was tres soft! This time it was The Green Alternative at Raven Tor. The line in between Chimes and Weedkiller. An old Zippy route. Seen a bit of traffic lately. Got the beta off Jon Clarke and managed to flash it. Its way easier than Chimes so not sure on grade? Who knows.

After that was doing some stuff to train. Weedkiller into Chimes. An 8b link which is great for the PE i will need in the cave. Fell off a few times in Chimes, but was feeling tired after training yesterday. Fresh it should go.

Rest day tomorrow then maybe Cave Sunday, or even grit weather permitting.

Off to eat my sweetie that Keith put in my Between The trees dvd. Is he trying to fatten people up?

Training training training

2009-11-19T10:53:00.000Z

One good thing to come out of this rubbish weather is i can train like Paxi, without worrying about compromising my climbing outdoors by not being recovered.

I have been going to The Depot and Boulder UK. Having good mixed sessions at both. It must be working as i have been flashing most of the 8's at BUK and that is quite rare for me. Maybe they are soft this set?

I have a couple more sessions of training before Font next week. That is if we go. If weather is looking iffy we wont go. At the moment its looking cloudy for the 4 days we are there. I can live with that.

Anyway, off to The Depot in a bit.

(Weight -10st 5lbs)

Grim Weather

2009-11-16T12:07:00.000Z

The cave didn't materialize this weekend due to iffy weather but an ace session at the depot did. What a wall. If you haven't been, get yourself over there. I was like a dog in a lamp post factory. Amazing roof, plenty of angles, rings, beastmaker woody, the list goes on! Oh and great coffee...

This one session has kick started my training again. Really psyched for some hard training interspersed with raiding trips outdoors. I feel getting out in rubbish weather is not the way for me at the moment. Train and get out when its respectable. More gains to be had i think. The stuff i want to do in the cave this year will need me to step up my game a little. But its all do-able.

Plenty of PE and Core, with plenty of problem mileage thrown in for good measure.

Weight has gone up a bit in last few weeks. That is probably down to all the Toblerones and Nando's hot crisps. Mmmmm, tasty. Up to 10st 7 at minute. Feel stronger though than when i was at 10st 2.

Living the Cave Life

2009-11-10T17:36:00.000Z

Had a job in Bangor this morning, so when it had finished i went over to the cave to meet Doyle. Was pretty minging, with not many full things dry that i hadn't already done. So it was finishing off cave life that was the project of choice. I worked the individual sections having not been on it for a good 6 months. First go i punted it by falling off left wall after getting the sequence wrong. Quick bit of beta later and i had dispatched Cave Life. First V11 of the bouldering season, so happy with that.

After that i joined doylo on Pilgrim. Quite a power endurancy V12. (Aren't they all in the cave!) This starts up left wall and then moves into RA, via the arch traverse. I can do the crux section, but not from the very start. Its pretty tiring. Plus the end of RA is wet s not so keen to get through it all to have to drop off at the end. So get a bit more muscle memory on it and then move onto in hell. This is the v12 extention to pit of hell which i did earlier this year. After a bit of working i found myself falling off a few moves into RA. Fresh, i think i will nail this, as i had done a lot of climbing already today. Maybe the weekend?

Barracuda

2009-11-02T21:07:00.000Z

Well i have had almost a week off to re energize the body and mind for climbing. I have been surfing down in the SW since Wednesday, and feel stronger in the shoulders, and very very psyched for climbing again.

Off to Rubicon tomorrow with Serps and we are meeting Ted there. Arran hoping to finish off Caviar and myself on a three part mission.

After my brief ten minute play on Barracuda last week with Ryan, i know i can do the move. Its pretty easy after it so if i can just pull the move once, i can tie on and finish the route. The grade is still for debate, but at 8b/8b+ its a fierce route.

Depending on how that goes, one way or another, before the skin goes, i need to finish off Hot Fun Closing. Also need to do Dangerous Brothers.

So all three would be amazing. Two would be brilliant. One of the three would be more than acceptable.

Lets see what the day brings.

Big K

2009-10-26T16:10:00.000Z

We arrived at Big K, and it was lashing down. My psyche was low and my pocket on Dr crimp was wet. I decided not to climb, but rest. Andy F and Cookie were tag teaming Grooved Arete, so i just watched. Then Arran turned up and as his proj (Vanilla Path) was wet he decided to get on Private Practice, the 8a+ next to Grooved Arete. After he worked out the beta i got psyched, and was redpointing in no time. Very soft for 8a+, and very flashable with beta. Ted?

Top was wet though which is the same as Little Earnie. So knowing this might have prevented my psyche from getting to a level to do the route. Couple of goes i pulled into crux but not out of it. Cest la vie.

Will prob try and head back tomorrow or Wednesday to redpoint. Before i then take a well earned surfing break to Cornwall and Devon.

Slaying vampires

2009-10-24T22:43:00.000+01:00

Got to Malham today and it was ming. The oak was wet. I had two options. Unjustified, as Reevie was on it, or Energy Vampire, which Cookie was on. We were a three so didn't make sense to get on anything else. Had a few goes on the start of Energy but kept getting wet feet and slipping off. I was ready to pack up and go home when the sun came out.

Cookie dispatched. Then i dispatched after a warm up go. It was my first proper day on it after having had a play on it a few weeks back. I managed to clobber a sequence earlier, so all went pretty well in the end. Climbs much nicer on the upper wall than any of the other routes close by.

Off to Kilnsey tomorrow i think, but it might be wet. So we may end up at Malham again. If so i hope the oak dries over night. I need to do it while i am having a peak in my performance.

Two 8b's and two 8a+'s this week, my best week ever i think.

Motivation In The Morning

2009-10-22T22:42:00.001+01:00

First thing i see in the morning. Slowly the list is getting smaller.

Zeke And Beluga

2009-10-22T21:43:00.000+01:00

Great day at Rubicon today. Warmed up and felt shit. Put my clips in Zeke, and just wasn't feeling it. It felt hard, though i guess 8b should do. Came down and rested for a bit. Then went for a redpoint. I was lost in focus, but found myself through the crux and at the break, where a quick shake saw my clipping the chain. What an anti climax. I was expecting a fight.

Zeke The Freak - 8b

Next up was Beluga. Not been on it before, but have done Caviar. Its a tad harder, but more sustained to the break. Guess it was my thing, but a few redpoints saw me dispatch it pretty quick. Albeit having a moment going to the break. But the less said about laying one on facing a deck out the better. Oops.

So all my projects are coming together nicely. Hopefully The Oak on Saturday and Energy Vampire. Then Sunday, weather and conditions permitting, Dr Crimp. Oh to dream ;-)

Out for now.

St Bees

2009-10-20T23:16:00.001+01:00

Had a job in Whitehaven this morning so thought i would pop to St Bees after. Forecast was rubbish, but i had never been before so if anything i thought i would have a look.

Was down by the boulders by 1.30, and tide was still pretty much in. So warmed up with Headbanger, which i onsighted. V8? Mmmmmm... Did it a few times for the video camera.

Then had an onsight go on Yellow Desert Screaming. Now i only had one pad and no spotters so this was a tad scary. Jumped off going for the first crimp. Second go I man'd up and went for it. Got to the slopey top to find it a tad damp. I was committed though, and just about pulled over. Pad was not under me anymore as i had place it wrong. Once the adrenaline had subsided i scramble back down.

Tide was still on way out and was starting to rain, so couldn't get round to fisherman's steps stuff. Decided to bag it and head home. Full on two hour drive. Keen to come back at some point though. Lots of cool stuff still to do, and a few projects that look good. Reckon a weekend in the spring is on the cards.

I trained when i got in. Weights and the Beastmaker with the 9kg vest on. Feel exhausted. Yorkshire Thursday, or maybe the Peak, weather dependent. Would be good to finish off Zeke, but only going to go if its good conditions.

Weekend is both days Yorkshire. Malham Saturday, hopefully finish up the oak, then Sunday back to Kilnsey for Dr Crimp. After speaking to Gaz, i have alternate eta to try. Mine is fine but maybe this new beta will make it easier.

Dr Crimp

2009-10-18T20:10:00.000+01:00

Got back on Dr Crimp today, to see if that broken foot makes any difference. Can't say it does. In fact, it is prob easier to use the new one i found as its less bunched. So cheers Reevie!

I did from before the crux to the belay today, so just need to add the lower hard move onto it and its in the bag. Found a slightly easier sequence on top easier bit, so that should help.

Need to email gaz though to double check i am doing the hard bits same as him, it is so easy to get sucked into a sequence, but maybe not the best one.

Just need some cold crisp days now as today was so minging.

Its 50/50 if it will go this year now, all depends on me topping up the PE, and the crag staying dry.

Some gushing

2009-10-17T20:51:00.000+01:00

Went to Kilnsey today, was pretty dry, and as i was warming up i knew i was going to do Massala Martyr. Some days you know when you are going to do stuff, and today was one of those days. Warmed up, put the clips in MM, belayed Arran on Vanilla Path, then dispatched MM first go, no hassles. I finished up Zero Option fora full tick and a bit of extra pump. No change in grade though. I would have to agree with Jordan that since the hold has broke this is no longer 8a+. It comes down to a v9 start, into a fr7a+, into a v8'ish sequence into a fr6c'ish finish. This was only the second ascent since the hold breaking so we shall see.

Stuffed after a 12inch pizza for tea. Back to Kilnsey tomorrow to see how the broken foot affects Dr Crimp. Also to watch Andy F tear GA a new arsehole...

New Evolv Talon

2009-10-16T15:22:00.001+01:00

The new Evolv Talon should be out soon, and here is one of the first reviews about. Very positive me thinks.

http://ezharrison.blogspot.com/2009/10/2010-talons.html

Slacking

2009-10-15T10:15:00.000+01:00

I feel i haven't had much success these past few weeks. More concentrating on projects. As we all know, we all need some success to motivate us. I feel i am not far away from a gushing of success. I have four main projects on the go. If i can do these before the crags get wet, i will be happy. In order of closeness to satching up.

Massla Martyr
The Oak
Northern Exposure
Dr Crimp

Everything else is now going to take a back burner. I should have really done the top two last sessions on them. I am half a move off doing MM. One foot slippage from doing The Oak. Then, just good cold dry temps keeping me from the other two.

Not too much to ask is it?

Frankie

2009-10-11T11:14:00.000+01:00

On Saturday i spent most of the day freezing trying to do Austrian Oak. I came close but was just too cold for any really good attempts.

Waking up on Sunday morning i felt beasted. Sore everywhere! So off we went to Kilnsey for an onsighting day. Usual warm up off Directisima then onto Frankie comes to Kilnsey. Its a 7b+ i have wanted to try and onsight for a couple of years. Its a tad bold in the middle so was always waiting for the clips to be already in! Yesterday i couldn't wait anymore. So i set off and felt rubbish. I was nervous, a tad apprehensive about the run out above and the holds were worse than i thought. In the middle of the run out i was a bit pumped and thought about jumping off. But i pushed on, relxed after the run out section and shook my way to victory. I thought i looked sketchy as hell but Arran said i looked pretty steady. Guess you always look in more control than you feel!

Chuffed.

After that i got sucked into trying Masala Martyr, an 8a+ which has only seen one ascent by Jordan since the loss of a hold a few years ago. I belayed him when he repeated it, and have always fancied trying it properly. The start is the crux, a v9 font 7c sequence, into a french 7a+ into a V8/7b ish move high up. Then a scary sequence above a peg. It is though to be solid 8b now.I did the crux at the start pretty quick, got the top wired, but then on redpoints, and the story of my season so far this year, i kept getting to a wet pocket and not being able to recover on it. What is it with Kilnsey pockets and me this year!

Hopefully get back on it this week at some point. Also need to have a look at Dr Crimp again to see how crucial the foot hold was that a certain Foundry owner broke of during the week!

The Oak

2009-10-05T21:46:00.000+01:00

I headed to Malham today with Super Ted. I finished Overnite off the other day so i needed a new project. I said i would never get on the oak as it always looks totally desperate and not really my thing. I was surprised at how hard it actually was, more so for the feet. I linked from the horn to the top, but really need to dial in the feet for the traverse section. The start is hard though, being mainly undercuts, my weakness!

I am confident about it going down pretty quick. If not next session the one after that. It was in the blazing sun most of today, so conditions were not great.

Ted was on Idefix, and linked from the top of Aardvark to the belay. So great link and he should send next session.

All in all a good day. Am starting to feel a bit of a cold coming on, so hopefully lots of Lemsip should keep it at bay.

Overnite

2009-10-03T21:24:00.000+01:00

After a bit of a heavy night on the booze and only 4 hours sleep i wasn't expecting to do much at the crag today. Walking in to Malham i got soaked to the bone. It was horrible. I was so pissed off. Took about an hour to dry out.

Once dry, the sun came out, i put the clips in Overnite and had a redpoint. My foot had picked up some wet dirt somewhere and i slid off. Next go i fluffed the lower standup move. Same on my next go. What a punter. Next time it all went smoothly and i was clipping the chains. Very much unexpected as i didn't feel great.

So that is one more loose end tidied up. I am never going to do all i have on my list this year, but if i could get any of the following i would be chuffed.

Magnetic Fields
The Oak
Zeke The Freak
Northern Exposure
Dr Crimp

I have a few other things that i have been on previously that need finishing up also. They are at the state of should go down with one or two redpoints. They are all worked and good to go! These include

Connect 4
The Thumb
Hot Fun Closing
Dangerous Brothers
Mussle Beach
Thors Moth
In Brine

Fingers crossed i can get some of the above ticked. I have also just bought a van so will be busy kitting that out. That also adds the distraction of a few days away at crags i wouldn't normally go too. Loose ends in the south include

Cider Soak
Breathing Method
Freaky Ralph

I will try and tidy these up in one trip, hopefully in the next few week. I am going to be busy!

Weather For The Weekend

2009-09-28T23:54:00.000+01:00

Looks like its going to be cold this coming weekend. With wind, it is supposed to feel like 6/7 degrees. Lets hope pockets and undercuts at a certain crag in North Yorkshire dry out in the meantime.

D D Dr Dr Crimp

2009-09-28T21:37:00.000+01:00

Well it may be an annoying song that gets in your head but as far as the route goes, its brilliant. Dr Crimp is a Gaz Parry route at Kilnsey, which he gave 8b+. Ste Mac flashed the second ascent and its not had a third.

Now its been too warm to finish off Northern Exposure, even though its nearly October. It has one of these soft rock type crimps on it that is hellish to hold in warm temps. Add to that the fact i am an 8a+ climber masquerading as an 8b+ climber, and well, its still awaits the crush.

With this weather i fancied something a bit less conditions dependent. So i had a look at Dr Crimp. I did the crux second go, and can now climb from before the crux to the top in a on e'er. Unfortunately i can't have redpoints as there is a wet pocket low down you need dry for clipping. Its on an easier section but it takes too much out of me trying to hold it, clip off it, then move into the crux with wet hands.

So foiled again? Only time will tell. I am either going to have an amazing October or i will be very pissed off. Still, as i have just said to Doylo, if you had said to me at the start of the summer that i would have ticked two 8b+'s by the winter i would have laughed you out of the room!

Pic of Gaz on Dr Crimp

Trowbarrow

2009-09-23T20:53:00.000+01:00

Quick write up of today.

Wanted to do Pacman, but didnt quite have the grunt at the end when needed. Did a few new things, but also did Wheelbarrow, the slighlty easier, V10 version of Pacman. Can do the move the lanky way a la Ryan and Smit. So its on. I get to the crux move on Vitruvian then fail. If i stick that, i should be in. It feels a grade harder than Iron Man. So Either Iron Man is V10 or Pacman is V12! Or Iron Man is bottom end 11 and Pacman top end. Who knows... Grades eh!

Gave Jeewooth the tour and also Dylog. He crushed Vitruvian quickly as did Adam. Neds problem was also crushed. Jee is not a million miles away from doing Iron Man either.

Great day, feels good to be back bouldering, but still got unfinished business on the routes front.

Celebrations and Revelations!

2009-09-22T21:37:00.000+01:00

I didn't expect it, but today i did my first 8b route. I tried Revelations a few weeks back with the sun beaming down. I couldn't touch the crux at the start, which is V9/10. This then climbs into a tricky route 7c. I had most of the route wired but never tried the top slab. Once that was all sorted i start trying the crux move. I stuck it third go and proceeded to fall off the groove bit. One more go later, and after my lucky omen had turned up, i dispatched the route. Was so psyched, and now i feel i have a right to be on the harder routes.

Even though i am very close to Northern Exposure, which is a grade harder than Revelations i feel i now have a bit of a track record at 8b now, albeit just the one route.

So, all being well, in the next few weeks i can report my first 8b+ too. Just hope the weather doesn't crap out and it get wet.

Finger crossed.

First 8a Flash!

2009-09-20T19:41:00.000+01:00

Well, kind of! It gets 8a in the guide book, but i would be deluded to think it was. Maybe the new lightweight me is climbing very well? Either way it was a good little route called Angel Heart at Trollers Gill. Went for a days onsighting and it certainly was! Two 7a's, two 7a+'s, a 7b+ and an 8a, cough 7c+ flash.

Rest day tomorrow, then potentially the Tor on Tuesday. Probably to get back on Revelations. Hope for better temps this time. As for the rest of the week, if its cold i would like to get back on Northern Exposure, hopefully to round off a awesome route season in style.

Northern Exposure - Day 2

2009-09-19T22:17:00.000+01:00

Temps where warm. Started redpointing today. Can get to the crux no problems. Fall off. Pull on and then fall off last move to jug. Better conditions will make the last move fine. That just leaves doing the crux move. The rest flows ok for me and once i consistently start hitting the crux move from the ground, i think the route will go pretty quick.

Reckon a week of deadhanging on a small edge will make the last move feel easier. It's not the crux, but it is the hardest move for me.

Day of onsighting tomorrow somewhere. Maybe Dib Scar or Trollers.

Northern Exposure!

2009-09-18T21:15:00.000+01:00

Today i went to Kilnsey with the Jeewooth and we met up with Barrans and Ellie. Started off with a pretty good onsight go of More Rhubarb Faster. Did it first rp, top route and much underrated. Think this has settled at 7c+ now, with loss of a few holds. Should be on everyones list, albeit a tad reachy...

Next was Le Lapin, Aaron's new direct on Myra Hindley. I tried it briefly the other day but it was a tad warm. Today it was cooler and did it first go. Aaron thought either 7c+ or 8a. I think its a tricky one to grade, but its harder than Myra by a bit, and has some tricky moves on it. Possibily just 8a? Not sure. Needs more ascents. Mine was 5th i think.

Then me and Jee thought we would get on Northern Exposure, the supposedly desperate short 8b+ Within 10 minutes i had done all the moves, same with Jee. It is basically a 7b+ into a V10. Tomorrow or Sunday i will start redpointing. I can see myself getting very close very quick, but has an awkward last move to a jug that feels hard when tired. It is not the crux but easily drop-able! Think this weight loss is really helping my climbing. Still hovering at about a stone lighter than normal.

Psyched for the weekend now!

Metolius Photo Bouldering Comp

2009-09-16T14:24:00.000+01:00

Ukclimbing are running a photo comp for bouldering shots in association with Metolius. I have entered some shots i think might have a good chance of winning some kind of prize.

Here they are.

Top to bottom.

Tyler working New Base Line, fb8b+ in Magic Wood.
Jody Hansen on Cocaine Corner, fb6c, Camp 4, Yosemite.
Vin DeLuca on Pride, fb7c, Camp 4, Yosemite.

The Rabbit

2009-09-15T17:21:00.000+01:00

After my trip to Wales i was kind of glad to be back on home turf. My beloved Kilnsey is dry again :-)

I had a loose end to tie up from last time, Myra Hindley, 7c/7c+ I wasn't looking forward to it as it felt hard when i tried to onsight it the other week. This time however conditions were better and i did it putting the clips in as i went first try of the day. Didn't get very pumped either which means i am still fairly fit.

After this i got on Le Lapin, or the rabbit... This is a direct on Myra put up by Aaron Tonks a few weeks back. Its one of those borderline 7c+/8a grades that we love so much. I had a flash go which ended unexpectedly on a move i didn't think would be hard. I worked it and had another go. Conditions crapped out though and there are a couple of conditions dependent holds on it. Few more attempts and i stripped the route and went home early. Next time first try of the day it should be done.

I am a bit loathed to get on something new this late in season and with the weather potentially on the turn. Still a few things to finish at Kilnsey. The thumb is the obvious one. Also i had a good attempt on Metal Mickey a few weeks back flashing the top half. Need some beta for the bottom as its quite sharp, and has potential to shred skin. This is one of the routes i want to do as my first 8b which i really want to do this year. Along with Zeke the freak, when conditions get cooler, as well as Magnetic Fields. All three should go pretty quick when conditions get better again.

Work all this week, so just training for now.

Out.

Long Weekend Abroad

2009-09-13T20:54:00.000+01:00

So i went on a last minute holiday to Wales. Stayed with Doylo on the sunny Orme.
Did lots of onsighting up to 7b, and ticked a few harder things too. Did a cool 7c+ at Landulas which is a one move wonder so was very hard. Managed to do it first rp which is always handy for saving skin.

Later on went over to try an unrepeated 8b called Corinthian Groove. I could do the crux everytime pretty much but not the move after. Not decided what to do about this but keen to get back on it again at some point.

I also finished of Doyles new route on Mayfair wall, Masterplan. It is a soft very reachy 8a+ thats quite bouldery. It's one you will do quick or not at all! Top route and a fin addition to the wall. Had a few goes on it months back when it was still a project. Did all the moves on Friday but lacked skin, then sent first redpoint on Saturday. Was chuffed.

Got home eventually with all the traffic! Bit of a busy week at work this week it turns out so Kilnsey tomorrow, then working till Thursday. Should take my mind off other things going on at moment...

The diet

2009-09-06T19:38:00.000+01:00

After waking up feeling a bit iffy, been fighting a cold, i decided to have a session on the new set down West View. Vickers always does a good job and i always like trying to do the whole set in a session, comp style.

Normally there are a few 8's that take me more than one session. This time i flashed them all bar one. Other than 1 v6 i couldnt work out, i flashed everything else too. I just thought it was an easy set and thought nothing of it.

Then after getting out the shower this eve, i weighed myself. Not done this for a few weeks. Was avoiding it as i have had a few sessions on the beer, and was expecting to be creeping back up to my original weight of 11st 4ish. I couldn't believe it when the scales read 10st 4.8

Now it makes sense why i had to buy a new harness the other day. So since my diet which has been a couple months old now, i have lost a stone. Now i have not been running or any kind of aerobic exercise, just cutting out the crap. (mostly)

Time to get on those projects before the end of the lime season, if that isn't over already!

Another two 8's in a day

2009-09-02T19:45:00.000+01:00

This time i had never been on either or knew anything about them.

The call of nature - Quite soft for 8a, may settle at 7c+?
The toilet - Tad soft for 8a, but tricky feet.

Both got silly run outs at the top, which in the case of TCON ruins an almost 3 star route. The toilet is just too polished for classic status.

Chuffed to get them both in a day, although the easy start is shared by the two.

Been training at the wall lots and have noticed a quick increase in stamina which i am please with. All i hope for now is a good september and October weather wise to polish off a few more things.

Working the rest of the week now, and probably some trad at weekend, then back on sport again next week. (In between looking for a van!)

Best day ever!

2009-08-21T21:12:00.000+01:00

Well, after my near miss last month of nearly doing an 8a and an 8a+ in day, i finally managed it today. Of course, i had been on both of them before.

I was sat on the toilet this morning thinking, any days i drop the kids off before climbing is usually a good day. And today was no exception. I warmed up with comedy, putting the clips in. (A first). Then did Grooved arete 2nd rp of the day. Jumped on Subculture, worked the moves and did it first go of the day. Once at the belay, i kept going and finished up Myra Hindley, for a full tick. Sure its been done before but this means you go from the bottom to the top of the crag.

Its days like this that make you realise how good climbing is. Pushing your limits and always improving.

Pics from top to bottom
Me sending Subculture, 8a.
The Barrans working Northern Exposure, 8b+
Jordan working La Connection, 8b
Naomi Buys almost doing Subculture, 8a
Ash, too much cheesecake?

Grooved Arete

2009-08-15T18:15:00.000+01:00

I had my second session on Grooved Arete yesterday. Wasn't feeling great but linked from the pocket to the top. Had a good link from bottom too, but no cigar. Think its 8a from ground to the jug, or 7c+from pocket to top. Hopefully next session, if better conditions, i should be in.

I warmed up with a flash of nerve ending, a cool short little 7b below the bulge.

Well, my diet has gone to pot lately, so come monday i will be back on it, and training hard. Got a long list of things to finish off so need to be in tip top shape. Hopefully the weather will play ball. Am off all this coming week so hopefully lots of climbing

Some pics below.

Grooved Arete 8a+

Nerve Ending 7b

Most expensive 7b+ in the world!

2009-08-12T17:27:00.000+01:00

1 flight to Mallorca - £130
Accomodation - £100
Spending money -£200
Deep water soloing afroman - priceless!

Long way to go for one 7b+! STILL haven't managed to get Diablo cave when its been dry. Might have to give up now. Still loads i want to do there though still.

Cest la vie.

Flashing Afroman, 7b+

Longridge Short Film

2009-08-05T23:02:00.001+01:00

I was filmed and photographed last week for a new series of articles to be put on the climber website. This particular one was for a Stone Circles type article about Craig Y Longridge. Below is the video which will be going up.

http://vimeo.com/5955069

As of tomorrow morning i will be in Mallorca for 5 days. So no blogs till i return.

Lardy Boy

2009-08-03T17:54:00.000+01:00

After being on my diet for a while now, it seems its not working. I have managed to pull two holds off in two days. One at Kilnsey on Rubble, then next on something a bit more important. The Chimes crimp at the tor. I was on my first redpoint of the full thing, and ripped it off. Lost my psyche after that so took my clips out and went over to Manchester for night on the tiles.

I went back to the Tor this morning with the Jordanator and did it first redpoint. Was very unexpected as i felt a bit crap and it was warm. Don't need to go back to the Tor now till it cools off a bit.

Off to Mallorca on Thursday for some DWS so doubt ill have much to report before hand. Though i am off to work in Windermere tomorrow so will call in at the Langdale boulders after for a session on the sit to Steffan Grossman.

1 hour 7mins

2009-07-29T00:09:00.000+01:00

1 hour 7 mins from Raven Tor to my house. My pb tonight. Leaving at 9.45 though from the Tor, so no traffic! Not bad.

Also not a bad evening at Tor. Great conditions. I got a mini tour off Ted as though i have been to Tor many times, i don't really know what all the problems are apart from the obvious classics. So tonight i managed.

Undercut to crimp, second go. Supposed to be 7b+?
Undercut to sloper, second go. Gets 7c, but def a notch harder than crimp variant.
Right of bens roof, 7c. I flashed this, so thought possibly 7b+ was more spot on but you can never tell when flashing stuff.

We also tried the sitter to the above problem. Not much is known about it but its probably in the V10/V11 ball park. I linked into the stand from the sitter, but was pretty tired by then, and my knee was a bit tweaky on the heal and toe so called it a night.

Earlier on though i nearly did Pump up the power traverse. 7c is the given grade but its only had a few ascents so probably more bottom end 7c+ ? I fell off on about my 5th go hitting the final jug but not holding it. Another session on it fresh should see it in the bag.

I felt super light again, and pretty strong. Think i will keep on losing the weight and training, as well as keeping up the weights.

Tomorrow i am working in the Lakes so if its dry, i am keen to head to Langdale boulders to try Steffan Grossman sitter. I think i did the stand years ago, but maybe not! Fingers crossed for no rain.

Still suprising myself

2009-07-25T20:31:00.000+01:00

My recent weight loss and finger boarding is still continuing to surprise.

Now, whilst i am under no illusion i was close to the flash on Zeke the freak today, i did flash up to the crux throw, and tickle the hold. Now there is then another couple of tricky moves to get to the good break, and then the fall off-able eng 6a finish, but i was well pleased. If i had used my eventual sequence that i am using now, then things could have been different. Another thing is its more like a V9 bloc than a fr8b route. But in climbing you have to take positives from situations. I had a good couple of redpoints and one where i should have stuck the move but forgot a hand bump. Then conditions and skin went down hill. 8b in a day would have been unbelievable. But i will be more than happy with doing this old school test piece in two days.

Now Doyle stepped up to the plate, and despite conditions dispatched on his 5 th rp of the day and pretty much second day on the route. Not bad!

Even more impressive was the mule. Dogs up, does all the moves. Tries one or two things then pulls the rope and sends first rp, first day on it. That lad needs to try something that will tax him. He didn't even really have a sequence. He is off to Ceuse for a month now so hope he crushes.

Me? Well, hopefully Zeke next session. Polish of a few other bits and pieces at Rubicon, then i can move onto Beluga. Then that's really it for the crag. The Bastard isn't high on my list!

Need to try and get some good quality stamina training in over next 10 days so i am reasonably fit for my long weekend jaunt to Mallorca.

Back in the game

2009-07-21T22:57:00.000+01:00

Well my finger is most def back on track. It seems the dirty little crimps on Caviar fixed it over night. How does that work? Any science out there to explain it?

Either way, it means i can train hard again, like i was training a few months back and was improving. So i am trying to do double session days. Try to get outside, then in the evening hit the Beastmaker and weights. I am also dieting and running to lose weight and have already lost a bit, which i have really noticed the difference with.

I went to the tor the other day, and did a quick warm up. Then warmed up first go on Bens roof. It felt really easy, though i put that down to conditions being good. I then got on Short Chimes. Armed with Jo Le Sage's beta i put it to bed within an hour. 2nd redpoint. I have heard a few people say this is supposed to be hard. Lets just say it must have suited me. Ill be sure to get on Full Chimes soon, which will be another climb to add to the list!

I am picking up a weights bench in next few days. It will add a new dimension to my routine i follow at the moment. The weights are mainly in preparation for the winter bouldering, but it can't hurt to add it to my current training plan.

Anyway, good session down at boulderuk today. Felt light and pretty strong considering it was my first time indoors in yonks.

Not sure what my plans are for the weekend yet. Yorkshire lime possibly wet, so maybe i should go back to Peak and start tidying up some loose ends. And hopefully quickly dispatching new stuff i want to do. Then if all goes to plan, work will be quiet and i will be able to concentrate on the Yorkshire lime in Autumn.

I booked to go to Mallorca for a long weekend the other day. With a view to doing some of the stuff at Diablo which was wet when i was last there. Cant wait!

Updates soon.

Almost an amazing day

2009-07-15T23:57:00.000+01:00

In the car down to Rubicon today, i joked with Arran that i wanted to finished off Caviar then do Hot fun closing. I thought i may just about manage Caviar at best.

We started climbing foolishly in the heat again, shredding our tips, and not doing too well. I had my first redpoint on Caviar, and got though to almost slapping the horn before the easy climbing starts. I wasn't expecting that. Sensibly i waited for cooler temps and on my next go it felt as it always does on redpoint, easy! Every hold had some friction as opposed to previous slimefest go. I had a bit of a monent on easier section but powered home to glory.

Next up was hot fun closing. I put the clips in, worked the moves again, and lowered off. It felt fine. Later on i go for the redpoint only too fail three times on Kudos. The sidepull seems almost wet. After getting ready to give up i manage to stick the move, then crusie to the break. I move up and through the last hard bit, but my strength is waining. I am almost off, but carry on. I slap the second to last hold. I stick it but am barely on. I don't have it in me to go again to jug. Disapointment. Will have to wait till next time.

Got the beta from Ted on all the stuff at Rubicon, so still loads to go at.

Finish hot fun closing.
Dangerous brothers.
Re-do Tribes with broken hold.
Maybe Beluga.
Then Zeke.

I am going to be busy for a while, what with all my other projects.

Out for now.

Quiet

2009-06-20T18:46:00.001+01:00

Sorry for lack of blogs. Been a bit busy. Plenty of climbing but mainly lower intensity. I injured my finger on the beastmaker and/or the longridge traverse! I have been plodding around doing some good 7c's and 7c+'s. I marked the pretty much healed finger by doing Bens Roof in a session (plus 30 mins years ago) and finishing off another loose end in Dead Calm. I have since started work on this years projects. Ive left a lot of the loose ends as they are generally shorted stuff for later in year when i am easing back into the bouldering.

So, new tick list looks like this!

The Thumb - Kilnsey
Urgent Action - Kilnsey
Let Them Eat Jellybeans (AKA, The Bulge) - Kilnsey
Subculture - Kilnsey
Magnetic Fields - Malham
Supercool - Gordale
The Groove - Malham

If i get these done i will be very happy. I dont expect to get them all. I am easily distracted!

More blogging soon.

1 down, 8 to go!

2009-05-04T21:52:00.001+01:00

Polished off one of the routes from the 'routes to finish off list' today. The Maximum. In terrible freezing conditions at Malham i managed it 2nd redpoint. 1st redpoint was aborted after the hanger of the third bolt fell off when i clipped it. I nearly shat myself! On the successful go i couldn't feel my fingers by the top, and grabbed the crab in the chain to clip off. I think as long as your honest about what style you do your routes, no one can complain. And ill certainly not loose sleep over it tonight. I might about the hanger falling off, but thats another matter!

On another note, my Beastmaker arrived the other day, and tonight i hung it and had a session on it! I feel more beastly already, haha!

Quick Longridge Session

2009-04-30T14:54:00.000+01:00

Went out last night with the intention of finishing up Super Submarine. Waited until as late as possible, and warmed up by strimming the bottom of the crag! All 150 metres or so. Was pretty sweaty after this so did a quick traverse and jumped on Super Submarine. Had a few warm up goes, slapping just short of Big Marine start, which, incidentally is the problem done for me as i have Big Marine so wired. I kept getting closer, changing my left foot position slightly. Still to no avail. I am getting the reach just not latching the hold! Think i just need to get stronger on the move and ill do it. Maybe next session maybe the one after, who knows. I know it will go its just a matter of when.

I warmed down with the Fr8a link of the traverse. From the start to Wobbly Block. It felt fine, and can now start pushing onto the high break. Once your getting to the high break you know the full traverse is on. Is this to be the year?

Spain Pics

2009-04-30T11:30:00.001+01:00

I have just uploaded my spain pics to my flickr site. You can see them here http://www.flickr.com/photos/adamlincoln/

A couple of me on Anabolica. One working it, one doing it, and one celebrating it!

Routes To Finish Up

2009-04-29T12:55:00.000+01:00

I hate unfinshed business. I am always so anxious to move onto the next thing, this unfinished business feels like a burden. Specially as most of it should be in the satch. My list is growing bigger, and just need a few weeks of focused energy to tidy them up and move on. I think making a note of them here might just help me clear some of them up.

So, here we go. If its on the list its stuff i have actually started to have redpoint goes on. Or, is just stuff i have been on thats gone really well, and is ready for redpoint goes.

The Maximum - Malham
Overnite Sensation - Malham
Main Overhang - Malham
Connect 4 - Malham
Subculture - Kilnsey
Salar - Rubicon
Hot Fun Closing - Rubicon
Caviar - Rubicon
Mussle Beach - Pen Trwyn.

So thats the routes. Bouldering wise.

Super Submarine - Longridge
Pacman - Trowbarrow
Cave Life - The Cave
Full Circle - The Cave
Lou Ferrino - The Cave

Quite a list, and if i can get at least half of them done and dusted this year ill be happy. I will of course be getting on new stuff, and so the list will grow. Now its written down though, it will help be to focus a bit more.

Some Longridge French Grades For Links

2009-04-29T12:05:00.000+01:00

Chatting with Arran about french grades for Longridge links has prompted me to write it down in type!

They are also on the Longridge Wiki, but i've added a few extra ones here.
http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/

Full Traverse Sections
Going Down - 8c+
Full Traverse (Traverse of the gods) - 8b+

Start to Icefall - 7b+
Start to Wobbly block - 8a
Start to High Break - 8a+
Wobbly Block to High break -7c
Icefall to highbreak - 8a
Icefall to Wobbly Block - 7b

Other Links
Long Low Life - 7b+
Bend Of The Rainbow Into Long Low Life - 7c
Pot Of Gold Start Into Bend Of The Rainbow - 8a

Suprising Myself

2009-04-29T08:54:00.000+01:00

Went to Longridge today with Sean. He had the beta for Super Submarine and i am keen for my first V12 so this being the closest one to my home, it makes sense. Turns out it wont matter as i nearly did it n a session. I keep suprising myself lately! Maybe i have just got lucky of late and picked things that really suit me. Who knows. All i know is that when its not drizzling, and conditions are better i will do it. I was about 3 inches off sticking the move, which gets you into the standup. Which incidentally i have pretty dialed!

For those that don't know the problem, he is a vid of Gaz on the FA.

Hope to write soon with the good news!

Incidentally i repeated Ruperts V8/9 yesterday also. In Excess sitter. A tricky little problem with brilliant moves. Probably worth 7c, but like i said above, not great conditions. Ill try it again when its not drizzling.

G Spot

2009-04-25T20:24:00.000+01:00

Today me and Arran ended up at Giggleswick G Spot instead of Malham. It turned out to be quite the decision. We arrived and warmed up with a little bouldering around. Some quite cool crimpy problems. Hoping to get warm for Harry Tuttle, the 7b+. Very short and crimpy. I had a flash go but nothing was chalked so got powered out working out the moves. Sorted a sequence, then dispatched it next go. A toughie.

Next up was Militia. A super steep 8a+. I put all the clips in and chalked all the holds. Ticked up a few things and lowered off. I knew i could pull on the holds and didn't want to waste energy. I knew i may as well have a redpoint. It was short lived as it turns out, an unexpected tricky clip. With it extended, i pushed on to the top. The hard bit turned out to be just where Jordan had said it was yesterday when we went for a peek at the crag. You need to throw for a hold with precision. I fell here twice more on attempts. Knowing i'd do it if i stuck it as the top was easy i kept having goes. On my 4th attempt i stuck the move, and climbed the easier upper bit to victory! My first 8a+ in a day. Very pleased.

It has been a good start to the sport climbing this year, and with the weather being so good, lets hope this continues for the rest of the summer. Along with my climbing getting better, this could be the 8b year... Maybe even more!

Kleptomaina

2009-04-24T18:43:00.000+01:00

Today i went to the Hollywood Bowl with Jordan. I wasn't expecting much but did have my eye on Kleptomania. I though i would be lacking the the power needed for it. My first try on a rope working it seemed to prove that i was right. It felt desperate. Though on getting to the chain, i had a play on the 8b+ extension, which Jordan was trying. This must have woken up my body as my next go i was at the chains of Klepto, and was just about to clip when my heel blew. Quite scary when your inverted! I lowered to the ground and fired it next go. Very satisfying to do it so quickly. Though had tried it briefly years ago. I rested the rest of the day, as i am off to Malham tomorrow, and need to be fresh.

Hopefully i shall finish off The Maximum tomorrow. That then leaves me a dilema. Do i then get on GBH, Connect 4 or Magnetic Field. I want to climb my first 8b soon so Magnetic would be the obvious choice. Connect 4 is a loose end from last year, and GBH would be a nice 8a+ consoladation tick! Decisions decisions.

The rain in Spain falls mainly in Spain (Part 1)

2009-04-21T09:27:00.000+01:00

The old saying 'the rain in Spain falls mainly on the plane' seems not to have been the case this year. Everyone is complaining about what a terrible winter it has been. And my two week trip was no exception. We had planned on staying in Terradets for the duration. Rain thwarted that idea. Wet tuffas, seeping rock. Not a good combo. It was going quite well. I was getting fit on the 7b's and working my way up. When the weather WAS good. Thinking it would be like this all trip. Then the rains came. Double rest days and psyche was at a low. Then a good weather window. I hang the clips on Bon Viatge, a classic super soft 8a+ that takes the highest bit of the crag, straight in the middle of the wall. I do all the moves first go. And leave it at that. Planning to come back for the RP. Then more rain. Next dryish day i go for RP, it feels ok, and i get to the crux. Armed with an even better sequence, thanks to a text from Mr Littlefair, i am through the crux, and have my heel on a good hold resting. Bang. Off it slides on a damp bit of rock, and off i come with it! Argghhhh. Not to worry though. Rock will dry soon and i can get it then. Wrong. Next few days were wet, so we decide to cut our losses and go to Siurana. I retrieve my quick draws and off we go.

Lesson 1 from this is take advantage of good days when you have them. Easier said than done but it can pay dividends later.

Adios!

2009-04-03T11:47:00.000+01:00

No blogs for a couple of weeks as i am off to Terradets in Spain for a sport climbing holiday.

I have not trained as much as i should have, as i kept getting distracted by boulder problems. I have kept my hand in at getting fit though, with at least a couple of session a week put into getting some route fitness. My power endurance should be ok as most of the problems i have been doing are a fair few moves, so fingers crossed. Be nice to get a few 8a's done and maybe the 8a+ Bon Viatage which is supposed to be super soft. Be a good confidence boost for the year. In a round about kind of way. On my sport climbing trips i generally focus on onsighting classics, this time i am going to air towards working harder stuff a bit more.

Anyway, i will be sure to get some pics.

Out for now.

Pad In The Sea!

2009-03-28T21:41:00.000Z

Well, another supposed last day in The Cave. This time, it is certain to be for 3 weeks at least, as i go Spain on Friday. Still didn't satch up Cave Life, kept sliding out of toe hook, and when it did stay, i was too boxed to get feet onto left wall traverse. That's fine though, something to come back for.

Had a mess around on Oppotrocity, flashing to the big throw to the pinch before the drilled pocket at end of Lou. It's quite a cool problem, but i then got side tracked by Full Circle, a cool v13 of Chris Davis's. Now, its never V13 in a millions years, but almost did it in a session. Once the Mule showed me the beta, it didn't feel to bad. I could do the crux, it was just the first move i was struggling with. In fact i did it from one move in, so hopefully next time. The mule satched it up, which was impressive. Thoughts on grade are V11'ish, maybe V12 a push. So that will be one to go back for.

Ted dispatched Broken heart. Which after a long discussion, we both agree its V9 with new heels beta. Lou Ferrino is harder. Grades ey, what would we talk about without them!

Ted went to try Drink Driving today, but was thwarted when his pad got blown into the sea from the pil box! He came back a little upset. Just as we were about to leave, Arran thought he would go have a look round LPT,and low and behold, what has washed up in the corner, yes, you guessed it, Teds pad! Though about 5 stone heavier with all the water.

Great day all round.

Must train hard this week for Spain.

Out.

Stepped it up a gear

2009-03-24T16:27:00.000Z

Tyler wrote recently in his Moon blog

Today marks the arrival at a new level in my climbing. I am not sure how I got here, or when, but I know that some transformation has occurred recently

Well, whilst i am no where near his league, i feel like something has come together of late, certainly bouldering wise. I seem to be feeling stronger than ever (even at 29) and psyche is at an all time high. (And i have been climbing 16 years!)

Over the last five years i could never understand why i couldn't climb V11/8a. I was certainly strong enough, as people kept saying. Even traveling to America to just boulder didn't produce any magic grade ticks. It took another trip across the pond for my first V11.

Now, grades i hear you say. Well yes, but as climbing isn't about competing against each other, you need some kind of yard stick to measure by. For me this is the grade of V11, or 8a.

So i finally did my first one. Then managed another early this year. Which may only be V10 in the end. Who knows, who cares. Now over the last two weeks i have climbed 4 V11's. None of which are thought to be soft.

So whats going on? suddenly something clicked? Who knows...

Anyway, today i went out and climbed Pot of gold at Longridge. Its a Ryan Pasquill V11 dyno into a cool v9. The other day Smitton found a static way of doing it and i was keen to try it. I set up the pads, warmed up, worked the V9 again and pulled on. First few tries i didn't do the move. I then stuck the move and fell off the V9 bit. Next go it was in the bag. I won't go into detail as the video below speaks for itself, including the lovely mono move ;-)

Pot Of Gold - V11