Thursday, July 15, 2010


Well, the finger is on the mend, after doing a load of 7's for the last few weeks. With a bit of trad thrown in! I thought today would be the day to finish of Urgent Action. Would test the finger a little too. Had an awful warm up. I felt tired, from too many days climbing, conditions were bad, and i was climbing in a new pair of boots. First go i felt tired all the way up, feet slipping and eventually taking the long ride from the sika slap move. After a rest, i got back on again. Still feeling tired, i eventually get to the undercuts. I slap the first hold, then slap the second. Finger felt ok, i had the hold reasonably, though i feel tired reaching out too jug. Luckily i stick it, compose myself, then rattle on up the finishing groove. Didn't really enjoy the actual climb as i felt terrible on it. Previous redpoints have felt easier, but no success. That's the climbing game i guess.

So, what's next? Motivation and psyche is low, so going to leave The Thumb and Full Tilt for now. I have my eye on a bigger prize. Dr Crimp. I feel if i don't climb 8b+ this year, i will have failed. I am scared of failing. So as of the weekend, Dr Crimp with take priority till it is ticked. I feel a bit weaker than last year on it so i will start a dead hanging regime tonight, and also try and drop a bit of weight.

Speaking of which, i must crack on.

Out for now...

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