Monday, June 02, 2008

4 Days On

Well i am writing this a little broken. 4 hardish days on and i am tired.

It started off in the South Lakes bouldering with Doyle. Went to Shucks Lair, and lost much skin due to temps! Chris posted some pictues here.

Then Friday i went to Kilnsey with Jordan to get a little fitter. Wanted to Flash Comedy, a classic 7c. Failed flash, climbed to top and did it first red point. Not great but in the bag.

Jordan made the first ascent since loss of hold off Massala Martyr. It used to get 8a+ but could possibly be 8b now. Jordan made it look very easy, but when i was to try it the next day, it was very very hard. V8 move at least of the deck, tricky climbing and another V8 at least move higher up. Off the list for me for now.

Saturday i went back to Kilnsey with Arran. He was keen to get on Massala Martyr. Success eluded him. Temps not great and obvious dificulty of the route meant he is leaving it alone for now. I tried to flash Pantomime, a 7b+ to the right of Comedy. Failed on flash, and then did it first red point. I personally thought it was as hard if not harder than Comedy. And so did the guy who went on it before me. Maybe i was tired....

Sunday was supposed to be back to Kilnsey, but rain thwarted us and so it was off to Malham. I wanted a project, and the three 8a+'s on the left of the crag were the ideal choices. I picked Mid Ledge Spread, as Arran was working this also. By the end of the day, i had done all the moves, and linked from just after the crux to the top clean. Maybe another day working then go for the red point. Or maybe ill feel less tired and get it next day on it..... (Wednesday)

Out for now.

1 comment:

Paul Bennett said...

I've always thought the same regarding pantomime and comedy but yesterday realised that the grades are probably right.