For those of you who haven't seen this short film i made, here it is.
The Dream Never Dies from Adam Lincoln on Vimeo.
Tuesday, January 26, 2010
Sunday, January 10, 2010
Game Over
I am sat in my friends flat in Paris smiling after an amazing 3 and a bit week trip to Font. I have had highs, i have had lows. I have had amazing weather, and i have had crappy weather.
Two days ago i went to try Fata Morgana. I have been wanting to finish this off since tying it on a trip last year. Basically i should have done it the other day. I was up on the two pockets, foot on, staring at the finishing jug, and my foot popped. I couldn't get there again, so i decided to postpone my return to england for three days to go back and try it again.
That day was today. I returned to the bloc after warming up at Neils. I went on my own, then there was no pressure. I got there feeling good, but the rock was far from good. The problem was a sheet of ice. I tried scraping it off and drying the rock, but kept falling off the bottom. I realised it wasn't going to happen, and admitted defeat. I am fine with that. The problem isn't going anywhere, and when i come back i will be even stronger, and a better climber.
I have a few more problems i want to finish up i the UK, then i will be training for the routes season, which i intend intend to start early on.
I have a few return trips to Font this Spring, so the game is not quite over for the year.
In the mean time, i have plenty of footage from my trip, and intend to put a short film together. This is as soon as i can make the switch from MAC to PC. By far the best editing package i have used is Sony Vegas, and as i intend to do more filming and editing this year, i need to make the switch back to PC. Plus pocket some money on the difference in price between my Imac and a decent PC.
Lets hope the snow melts soon in the uk. Will try and get out on the hills for some snowboarding over the next week, before my trip to Morzine next month.
Two days ago i went to try Fata Morgana. I have been wanting to finish this off since tying it on a trip last year. Basically i should have done it the other day. I was up on the two pockets, foot on, staring at the finishing jug, and my foot popped. I couldn't get there again, so i decided to postpone my return to england for three days to go back and try it again.
That day was today. I returned to the bloc after warming up at Neils. I went on my own, then there was no pressure. I got there feeling good, but the rock was far from good. The problem was a sheet of ice. I tried scraping it off and drying the rock, but kept falling off the bottom. I realised it wasn't going to happen, and admitted defeat. I am fine with that. The problem isn't going anywhere, and when i come back i will be even stronger, and a better climber.
I have a few more problems i want to finish up i the UK, then i will be training for the routes season, which i intend intend to start early on.
I have a few return trips to Font this Spring, so the game is not quite over for the year.
In the mean time, i have plenty of footage from my trip, and intend to put a short film together. This is as soon as i can make the switch from MAC to PC. By far the best editing package i have used is Sony Vegas, and as i intend to do more filming and editing this year, i need to make the switch back to PC. Plus pocket some money on the difference in price between my Imac and a decent PC.
Lets hope the snow melts soon in the uk. Will try and get out on the hills for some snowboarding over the next week, before my trip to Morzine next month.
Thursday, January 07, 2010
Almost Game Over
Well my trip is almost over. Didn't get to Fata today, got distracted with mileage. And Sale Gosse! Going to it tomorrow all being well. Last day, last chance! We had to clean all the stuff we did today as it all had snow on. Friction was amazing on first few goes on Sale Gosse, then got a bit damp. Managed to hit the top and it stuck though, so good to get such a classic in the bag.
So my three weeks has not been bad. Lots off good stuff with some frustrating weather also. Ticklist looks something along the lines of this. Not quite a Landman rampage, but i am happy.
7c+
La Balance
Atomic Playboy
Berezina/Carnage Link
7c
Sale Gosse
Noir Desire
Vandale
Tristesee
L'Arrache Coeur
Fourmis Rouges
L'Ange Naif
7b+
Magic Bus
Sur-Prises
7b
Bleau's Art
Immodium Assis
7a+
L'Ange Naif Droite
Jete Michaud
Le Bloc A Bertrand
7a
Jet Set
Immodium
L'Oblique
Laser
Brazil
So my three weeks has not been bad. Lots off good stuff with some frustrating weather also. Ticklist looks something along the lines of this. Not quite a Landman rampage, but i am happy.
7c+
La Balance
Atomic Playboy
Berezina/Carnage Link
7c
Sale Gosse
Noir Desire
Vandale
Tristesee
L'Arrache Coeur
Fourmis Rouges
L'Ange Naif
7b+
Magic Bus
Sur-Prises
7b
Bleau's Art
Immodium Assis
7a+
L'Ange Naif Droite
Jete Michaud
Le Bloc A Bertrand
7a
Jet Set
Immodium
L'Oblique
Laser
Brazil
Wednesday, January 06, 2010
Playboy
I have got to write a brief blog about my New years in south of france, but thought i would do a quick update from today first. After a good moderate mileage day of lots of low 7's yesterday, i was itching to go and get on Amok and Fata Morgana today. I woke at 9 to go to the toilet and it looked mint and cold. I went back to bed for another hour, only to awake to it chucking it down with snow. My heart sank. I was pissed. Not to be deterred i decided to go and brush the snow off the top of Atomic Playboy as i had come close a few weeks back. Now it might be a 7c+ traverse but its one of the best line around. See previous blog about it for a picture.
As usual i warmed up in Neils garage, with the tunes banging out of the stereo for some added psyche. I made the scary icey drive down to Buthier and proceeded to clean the snow off the top out. I worked the top out, but found the big jug at the end had frozen ice in it. So i worked a harder campus finish, and had a rest for five minutes. I booted up, pressed record on the camera, and 40 seconds later, after a bit of a tussle with the end, found myself on top of the bloc. 1 hour warming up for 40 seconds of sending. This will feature in my short font video i will put together on my return to the UK.
Tomorrow we are off to Amok in the morning, then Fata Morgana in the afternoon. Both will need the tops brushing, but bar any horrendous snowfall over night should be ok.
Out.
As usual i warmed up in Neils garage, with the tunes banging out of the stereo for some added psyche. I made the scary icey drive down to Buthier and proceeded to clean the snow off the top out. I worked the top out, but found the big jug at the end had frozen ice in it. So i worked a harder campus finish, and had a rest for five minutes. I booted up, pressed record on the camera, and 40 seconds later, after a bit of a tussle with the end, found myself on top of the bloc. 1 hour warming up for 40 seconds of sending. This will feature in my short font video i will put together on my return to the UK.
Tomorrow we are off to Amok in the morning, then Fata Morgana in the afternoon. Both will need the tops brushing, but bar any horrendous snowfall over night should be ok.
Out.
Monday, December 28, 2009
Slack Week
I am still in Font. Weather was rubbish though, snow, then the melt, so been training a bit. Got ill as well, just a 48 hour thing, but that has just about cleared up. Had a good couple of days recently. Did the hidden gem Vandale, 7c, which was good. Not the soft touch easy to flash problem Neil had me believe! Maybe if your as tall as Neil. Took me a while to even get a sequence to do last hard move. I then failed on the 8a link. Another Looonnnngggg move.
Today was back to my nemesis, Noir Desir, the classic 7c at Rempart. I have been falling off in the same place as i got to on the flash a few weeks back. The last move. Conditions seem to be keeping me from matching the last sloper. After consulting bleau.info, i found another sequence and dispatched it second go today. If only i had tried that all those days ago. Anyway, its in the bag now. Pritch got some pics so hopefully have them up soon.
Not sure how long i will have in the forest now before going down south, as the weather is set to turn bad any day. Going to Fata Morgana with Pritch tomorrow, so hopefully it will be dry. May have a couple of days in the forest after the trip south, and before i come home back to reality!
Wish me luck!
Today was back to my nemesis, Noir Desir, the classic 7c at Rempart. I have been falling off in the same place as i got to on the flash a few weeks back. The last move. Conditions seem to be keeping me from matching the last sloper. After consulting bleau.info, i found another sequence and dispatched it second go today. If only i had tried that all those days ago. Anyway, its in the bag now. Pritch got some pics so hopefully have them up soon.
Not sure how long i will have in the forest now before going down south, as the weather is set to turn bad any day. Going to Fata Morgana with Pritch tomorrow, so hopefully it will be dry. May have a couple of days in the forest after the trip south, and before i come home back to reality!
Wish me luck!
Monday, December 21, 2009
Not down yet
Went back to the only dry problem in Font today. (Bar Sherpa, but that's shit) To find it soaking. I tried drying it as best as i could, and had a go but slid off. So that is now 3 days i have been back to a 7c+ traverse now, and 3 times i have left empty handed. I should have done it first day on it, and been done with it. Last two days it has been too wet. It is more of a pain in the arse than it sounds as I have to warm up on Maison bleau woody, which is a lengthy process in these temps. Then to drive down the road to find it wet.
It is not getting me down though, as just being so close to the forest is good for the soul in its own right. It is also kind of fun driving around in the snow, not knowing if you are going to lose it and write your vehicle off. That wouldn't be good as i only have third party insurance out here. Still, least i am not in the TT!
Don't think stuff will be dry tomorrow, but maybe the day after exposed stuff might be.
Out for now.
It is not getting me down though, as just being so close to the forest is good for the soul in its own right. It is also kind of fun driving around in the snow, not knowing if you are going to lose it and write your vehicle off. That wouldn't be good as i only have third party insurance out here. Still, least i am not in the TT!
Don't think stuff will be dry tomorrow, but maybe the day after exposed stuff might be.
Out for now.
Saturday, December 19, 2009
Font - Day 9
Still lots of snow around today, so wasn't planning on getting out. Ben heason and Theo though had just arrived at gite, so with some fresh psyche we head out to Buthier to go and do Magic bus. A classic 7b+, but very soft. We knew it would be ok as it climbs out of a cave and has a jug to finish making a snowy top out ok.
We warmed up on the wall then went straight out. After wandering around looking for it we find it and mat up. Quick warm up go with wrong beta, then i do it. After seeing Theo flash it with the knowledge. Ben also finishes it up quick, and we move on to look for some more stuff to do.
We decide on Atomic playboy, and awesome looking 7c+ ramp traverse. We work the move and get a sequence down. Have a few redpoints but fall one move before the end. Skin failing and was sooooo cold! Will go back to finish off in next few days. Its another one that can be done in the snow.
Today is a rest day after another night at the Rex club in Paris with team Pearson/Bradbury/Lincoln. Slightly earlier finish this time of 6am! Como played a great set but didn't play my fav track.
Hoping for some good weather now for next week!
We warmed up on the wall then went straight out. After wandering around looking for it we find it and mat up. Quick warm up go with wrong beta, then i do it. After seeing Theo flash it with the knowledge. Ben also finishes it up quick, and we move on to look for some more stuff to do.
We decide on Atomic playboy, and awesome looking 7c+ ramp traverse. We work the move and get a sequence down. Have a few redpoints but fall one move before the end. Skin failing and was sooooo cold! Will go back to finish off in next few days. Its another one that can be done in the snow.
Today is a rest day after another night at the Rex club in Paris with team Pearson/Bradbury/Lincoln. Slightly earlier finish this time of 6am! Como played a great set but didn't play my fav track.
Hoping for some good weather now for next week!
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