Almost an amazing day

In the car down to Rubicon today, i joked with Arran that i wanted to finished off Caviar then do Hot fun closing. I thought i may just about manage Caviar at best.

We started climbing foolishly in the heat again, shredding our tips, and not doing too well. I had my first redpoint on Caviar, and got though to almost slapping the horn before the easy climbing starts. I wasn't expecting that. Sensibly i waited for cooler temps and on my next go it felt as it always does on redpoint, easy! Every hold had some friction as opposed to previous slimefest go. I had a bit of a monent on easier section but powered home to glory.

Next up was hot fun closing. I put the clips in, worked the moves again, and lowered off. It felt fine. Later on i go for the redpoint only too fail three times on Kudos. The sidepull seems almost wet. After getting ready to give up i manage to stick the move, then crusie to the break. I move up and through the last hard bit, but my strength is waining. I am almost off, but carry on. I slap the second to last hold. I stick it but am barely on. I don't have it in me to go again to jug. Disapointment. Will have to wait till next time.

Got the beta from Ted on all the stuff at Rubicon, so still loads to go at.

Finish hot fun closing.
Dangerous brothers.
Re-do Tribes with broken hold.
Maybe Beluga.
Then Zeke.

I am going to be busy for a while, what with all my other projects.

Out for now.

Quiet

Sorry for lack of blogs. Been a bit busy. Plenty of climbing but mainly lower intensity. I injured my finger on the beastmaker and/or the longridge traverse! I have been plodding around doing some good 7c's and 7c+'s. I marked the pretty much healed finger by doing Bens Roof in a session (plus 30 mins years ago) and finishing off another loose end in Dead Calm. I have since started work on this years projects. Ive left a lot of the loose ends as they are generally shorted stuff for later in year when i am easing back into the bouldering.

So, new tick list looks like this!

The Thumb - Kilnsey
Urgent Action - Kilnsey
Let Them Eat Jellybeans (AKA, The Bulge) - Kilnsey
Subculture - Kilnsey
Magnetic Fields - Malham
Supercool - Gordale
The Groove - Malham

If i get these done i will be very happy. I dont expect to get them all. I am easily distracted!

More blogging soon.

1 down, 8 to go!

Polished off one of the routes from the 'routes to finish off list' today. The Maximum. In terrible freezing conditions at Malham i managed it 2nd redpoint. 1st redpoint was aborted after the hanger of the third bolt fell off when i clipped it. I nearly shat myself! On the successful go i couldn't feel my fingers by the top, and grabbed the crab in the chain to clip off. I think as long as your honest about what style you do your routes, no one can complain. And ill certainly not loose sleep over it tonight. I might about the hanger falling off, but thats another matter!

On another note, my Beastmaker arrived the other day, and tonight i hung it and had a session on it! I feel more beastly already, haha!

Quick Longridge Session

Went out last night with the intention of finishing up Super Submarine. Waited until as late as possible, and warmed up by strimming the bottom of the crag! All 150 metres or so. Was pretty sweaty after this so did a quick traverse and jumped on Super Submarine. Had a few warm up goes, slapping just short of Big Marine start, which, incidentally is the problem done for me as i have Big Marine so wired. I kept getting closer, changing my left foot position slightly. Still to no avail. I am getting the reach just not latching the hold! Think i just need to get stronger on the move and ill do it. Maybe next session maybe the one after, who knows. I know it will go its just a matter of when.

I warmed down with the Fr8a link of the traverse. From the start to Wobbly Block. It felt fine, and can now start pushing onto the high break. Once your getting to the high break you know the full traverse is on. Is this to be the year?

Spain Pics

I have just uploaded my spain pics to my flickr site. You can see them here http://www.flickr.com/photos/adamlincoln/

A couple of me on Anabolica. One working it, one doing it, and one celebrating it!

Routes To Finish Up

I hate unfinshed business. I am always so anxious to move onto the next thing, this unfinished business feels like a burden. Specially as most of it should be in the satch. My list is growing bigger, and just need a few weeks of focused energy to tidy them up and move on. I think making a note of them here might just help me clear some of them up.

So, here we go. If its on the list its stuff i have actually started to have redpoint goes on. Or, is just stuff i have been on thats gone really well, and is ready for redpoint goes.

The Maximum - Malham
Overnite Sensation - Malham
Main Overhang - Malham
Connect 4 - Malham
Subculture - Kilnsey
Salar - Rubicon
Hot Fun Closing - Rubicon
Caviar - Rubicon
Mussle Beach - Pen Trwyn.

So thats the routes. Bouldering wise.

Super Submarine - Longridge
Pacman - Trowbarrow
Cave Life - The Cave
Full Circle - The Cave
Lou Ferrino - The Cave

Quite a list, and if i can get at least half of them done and dusted this year ill be happy. I will of course be getting on new stuff, and so the list will grow. Now its written down though, it will help be to focus a bit more.

Some Longridge French Grades For Links

Chatting with Arran about french grades for Longridge links has prompted me to write it down in type!

They are also on the Longridge Wiki, but i've added a few extra ones here.
http://craigylongridge.wetpaint.com/

Full Traverse Sections
Going Down - 8c+
Full Traverse (Traverse of the gods) - 8b+

Start to Icefall - 7b+
Start to Wobbly block - 8a
Start to High Break - 8a+
Wobbly Block to High break -7c
Icefall to highbreak - 8a
Icefall to Wobbly Block - 7b

Other Links
Long Low Life - 7b+
Bend Of The Rainbow Into Long Low Life - 7c
Pot Of Gold Start Into Bend Of The Rainbow - 8a

Suprising Myself

Went to Longridge today with Sean. He had the beta for Super Submarine and i am keen for my first V12 so this being the closest one to my home, it makes sense. Turns out it wont matter as i nearly did it n a session. I keep suprising myself lately! Maybe i have just got lucky of late and picked things that really suit me. Who knows. All i know is that when its not drizzling, and conditions are better i will do it. I was about 3 inches off sticking the move, which gets you into the standup. Which incidentally i have pretty dialed!

For those that don't know the problem, he is a vid of Gaz on the FA.



Hope to write soon with the good news!

Incidentally i repeated Ruperts V8/9 yesterday also. In Excess sitter. A tricky little problem with brilliant moves. Probably worth 7c, but like i said above, not great conditions. Ill try it again when its not drizzling.

G Spot

Today me and Arran ended up at Giggleswick G Spot instead of Malham. It turned out to be quite the decision. We arrived and warmed up with a little bouldering around. Some quite cool crimpy problems. Hoping to get warm for Harry Tuttle, the 7b+. Very short and crimpy. I had a flash go but nothing was chalked so got powered out working out the moves. Sorted a sequence, then dispatched it next go. A toughie.

Next up was Militia. A super steep 8a+. I put all the clips in and chalked all the holds. Ticked up a few things and lowered off. I knew i could pull on the holds and didn't want to waste energy. I knew i may as well have a redpoint. It was short lived as it turns out, an unexpected tricky clip. With it extended, i pushed on to the top. The hard bit turned out to be just where Jordan had said it was yesterday when we went for a peek at the crag. You need to throw for a hold with precision. I fell here twice more on attempts. Knowing i'd do it if i stuck it as the top was easy i kept having goes. On my 4th attempt i stuck the move, and climbed the easier upper bit to victory! My first 8a+ in a day. Very pleased.

It has been a good start to the sport climbing this year, and with the weather being so good, lets hope this continues for the rest of the summer. Along with my climbing getting better, this could be the 8b year... Maybe even more!

Kleptomaina

Today i went to the Hollywood Bowl with Jordan. I wasn't expecting much but did have my eye on Kleptomania. I though i would be lacking the the power needed for it. My first try on a rope working it seemed to prove that i was right. It felt desperate. Though on getting to the chain, i had a play on the 8b+ extension, which Jordan was trying. This must have woken up my body as my next go i was at the chains of Klepto, and was just about to clip when my heel blew. Quite scary when your inverted! I lowered to the ground and fired it next go. Very satisfying to do it so quickly. Though had tried it briefly years ago. I rested the rest of the day, as i am off to Malham tomorrow, and need to be fresh.

Hopefully i shall finish off The Maximum tomorrow. That then leaves me a dilema. Do i then get on GBH, Connect 4 or Magnetic Field. I want to climb my first 8b soon so Magnetic would be the obvious choice. Connect 4 is a loose end from last year, and GBH would be a nice 8a+ consoladation tick! Decisions decisions.