Today i went to Kilnsey with the Jeewooth and we met up with Barrans and Ellie. Started off with a pretty good onsight go of More Rhubarb Faster. Did it first rp, top route and much underrated. Think this has settled at 7c+ now, with loss of a few holds. Should be on everyones list, albeit a tad reachy...
Next was Le Lapin, Aaron's new direct on Myra Hindley. I tried it briefly the other day but it was a tad warm. Today it was cooler and did it first go. Aaron thought either 7c+ or 8a. I think its a tricky one to grade, but its harder than Myra by a bit, and has some tricky moves on it. Possibily just 8a? Not sure. Needs more ascents. Mine was 5th i think.
Then me and Jee thought we would get on Northern Exposure, the supposedly desperate short 8b+ Within 10 minutes i had done all the moves, same with Jee. It is basically a 7b+ into a V10. Tomorrow or Sunday i will start redpointing. I can see myself getting very close very quick, but has an awkward last move to a jug that feels hard when tired. It is not the crux but easily drop-able! Think this weight loss is really helping my climbing. Still hovering at about a stone lighter than normal.
Psyched for the weekend now!
4 comments:
Try the curry beast - you'd like that and it must be a b.
I agree with Uptown. Right up your street (and hopefully up mine).
Cheers guys, it is on the list, but have bigger fish to fry at the moment ;-) It's a race against the wetness!
F. Hell Adam, thought it felt much harder than 7b+ up to the crux! I still need to do the crux. Maybe see you down there in early Oct.
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