Tuesday, September 15, 2009

The Rabbit

After my trip to Wales i was kind of glad to be back on home turf. My beloved Kilnsey is dry again :-)

I had a loose end to tie up from last time, Myra Hindley, 7c/7c+ I wasn't looking forward to it as it felt hard when i tried to onsight it the other week. This time however conditions were better and i did it putting the clips in as i went first try of the day. Didn't get very pumped either which means i am still fairly fit.

After this i got on Le Lapin, or the rabbit... This is a direct on Myra put up by Aaron Tonks a few weeks back. Its one of those borderline 7c+/8a grades that we love so much. I had a flash go which ended unexpectedly on a move i didn't think would be hard. I worked it and had another go. Conditions crapped out though and there are a couple of conditions dependent holds on it. Few more attempts and i stripped the route and went home early. Next time first try of the day it should be done.

I am a bit loathed to get on something new this late in season and with the weather potentially on the turn. Still a few things to finish at Kilnsey. The thumb is the obvious one. Also i had a good attempt on Metal Mickey a few weeks back flashing the top half. Need some beta for the bottom as its quite sharp, and has potential to shred skin. This is one of the routes i want to do as my first 8b which i really want to do this year. Along with Zeke the freak, when conditions get cooler, as well as Magnetic Fields. All three should go pretty quick when conditions get better again.

Work all this week, so just training for now.


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