Monday, March 22, 2010

Update

Sorry i have not been blogging of late. Been a bit busy with one thing or another. I have mainly been training for my up and coming trip to Spain. Now 2 and a half weeks away. In between the training i have been outside and had a few good days. The three highlights include the following.

My first V12.
Super Submarine at Longridge. I have tried this a lot over the last year or so. Never having great conditions. Then got really close one day, and new it was on. Few days later i came back and it all clicked. I put together a short video of it here.

http://www.vimeo.com/9680744
 
E8 semi ground up! (i cleaned it on an ab, so not sure of the terminology)
I had cleaned this route on abseil last year, when i was fit. Though due to rain, i never got to try it. I was intending on top roping it, as it was supposed to be in the 8a+ difficulty range, and the pegs on it are old. This year i made a plan with Pete Whittaker to go and try it. He was only coming to belay as he had the CWIF on the weekend and he had a split tip. I abbed it again as it was dirty after the winter rains and snow. Pete persuaded me to have a go without a top rope, and, being easily led, thought i may as well. Plus, Pete is a well experienced trad master, so he knows what he is talking about. Had a flash go, and got to the crux, but got scared and grabbed some gear. Pete was then also unable to resist, and had a go. He hadn't abseiled it, so his attempts were true ground up. We each had a few more goes, getting higher and higher. I kept falling off moving around the corner at the top. One go nearly cutting through my rope falling off onto a sharp arete. So, we change rope end, and i have one more go, thoughts of the rope cutting were foremost in my mind, but i push on, and reach the top. My first E8, and in great style. Pete had another go, but split a tip, so had to stop. Great day.


Hot Fun Closing - 8a
So to round of my month, i went to Rubicon yesterday. It was hot. I didn't think i would be able to do hot fun. I have tried this before, usually after being on something else. Or in boiling weather. So it remained a nemesis to me. I had a few goes on the start, but was slipping off due to grease. Then, i stuck the move on kudos, and was in. I could remember the top, just, and battled on through to the top crux. Which was ming. I somehow held on though, and was at the top, very unexpectedly! Another good day. I was more happy about how much fitter i felt. Been doing some campus board endurance work, and it seems to be working.

Off to High Tor tomorrow for some trad. Hopefully the weather will hold!




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