Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Road to 8c!

Again, i am sorry for lack of blogging lately. I have left out all my trip to Spain, which i will update my blog with soon! The last month has all been about Unjustified, and climbing my first 8c. This is number one priority. It marks a benchmark that i never thought would be possible. I have improved a grade every year for the last 2 years. 8b, 8b+, and hopefully this year, 8c.

I had a day on the route last year. I linked from the crux to the top on a top rope. My first day on it this year, i lead from the crux to the top. The second day i had lead the route in two halves on a number of occasions. Now i have started redpointing, and falling off at the crux. I think once i do the one move i will have a good chance of getting pretty high, hopefully even doing it reasonably quick.

I have made a personally choice to clip every clip bar the first on every redpoint. A lot of people who have done this route have had it pre clipped up to the crux. This for me is not an option, and reduces the challenge a little.

I have also been training pretty hard the last few weeks at the wall, doing circuits and bouldering in volume. I have reduced my weight a little, and hope i can peak sometime soon. I am hoping day 4 on the route will show the rapid improvement the first three have shown.

8 comments:

uptown said...

Good luck Adam, I'm sure you'll achieve your goal pretty quickly.

Ramon Marin said...

Hey Adam, I'd love to hear more about your circuit training and volume-bouldering. I know it's a pain to blog about training, but it would be great to know what works for you.

Good luck on Unjustified! Crush!

wedding dresses said...

Hello,Adam, I'm looking forward to your next.

Sapuluh said...

Good luck Adam

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