Sunday, August 10, 2008

Slack On Blogging Front

Well, its been a busy month. Should have landed myself a job but they called me early and said i could start the next day. Great, only i was on a 3 week trip to Ceuse. This may get sorted in next few days, but not holding my breath.

Anyway, Ceuse was a get fit trip for me. I wasn't after climbing lots of harder stuff, just plenty of mileage, a few harder classics, and i wanted to flash my first 7c. I was successful on all fronts. I got fit, walking up the hill everyday. I got plenty of mileage done. Flashing 2 7c's in the end. Also did a few of the harder classics including Privledge Du Serpent. One of the best routes in Ceuse?

Met plenty of cool people out there, had a lot of good laughs. Only downside was the ammount of people climbing there. You had to queue 4 or 5 deep for classics. So, i went home earlier than planned.

Some Ceuse pictues. I hung on a rope and got a couplke of good piccies.

Robbie the smiling scott


Eric Grandelius working Dures Limit, 8c.


Needs no introduction


Henrik Petersons climbing Techupa, 7c


Henrik lowering of Techupa


Erik the smiling Swede, with Rich in the background!


Me flashing Bibendum, 7b+


Heather Trevarthen working Privlege Du Serpent


Evening light looking out from Ceuse


Heather Trevarthen working Privlege Du Serpent


Petit Ceuse


On returning to the UK i have been finishing of a few projects. Starting new ones, and ticking unplanned things! The weather has been so bad its been either, Malham or Kilnsey at the moment. So i started on Overnite Sensation the other day. A cool 8a+ with a hard start into a 7b+/7c. Another session working the moves then onto redpointing. Also started on a new 8a at Kilnsey. Just been put up called Dead Calm. Starts up WYSIWYG then heads off right to the top of the crag. This should go next session for me when it drys, and is a really cool route, with a crux right at the top. Ended up doing an 8a in a day the other day as well. Only my third one in a day. This was at Malham on the upper tier. Its called Conceptual Continuity. It starts up a 7b+ called Conceptual, and climbs into an overhanging groove via some steep V6/7 moves. I had a flash go, but fell off , then carried on to top but couldn't do last easy move in awkward groove. Got pissed off, lowered down and went and climbed on something else. At the end of the day i needed my clips back so though i'd give it a good go! I am not sure how, but i did it. Pulled the move out of my arse!

Well this has been a long post, so will wrap up now. My main focus now is finishing stuff off. Got a few things now. Climbs i have not finished over the years. These include, The Maximum, 7c+ at Malham. Connect 4, also at Malham, a four bolt 8a. Need to finish Subculture, an 8a over at Kilnsey. Plus i have to polish off Overnite and Dead Calm. Then i am going to get myself a hard project. An 8b or maybe even an 8b+. Though the thing with skipping grades as a wise man once said, is "you feel like you have business on the route if you havent skipped a grade"

Out for now.

1 comment:

Vallejo said...

The sky in the Techupa climbing shot really stands out. Cool evening light shots as well. Jobs are overrated.