Monday, September 28, 2009

D D Dr Dr Crimp

Well it may be an annoying song that gets in your head but as far as the route goes, its brilliant. Dr Crimp is a Gaz Parry route at Kilnsey, which he gave 8b+. Ste Mac flashed the second ascent and its not had a third.

Now its been too warm to finish off Northern Exposure, even though its nearly October. It has one of these soft rock type crimps on it that is hellish to hold in warm temps. Add to that the fact i am an 8a+ climber masquerading as an 8b+ climber, and well, its still awaits the crush.

With this weather i fancied something a bit less conditions dependent. So i had a look at Dr Crimp. I did the crux second go, and can now climb from before the crux to the top in a on e'er. Unfortunately i can't have redpoints as there is a wet pocket low down you need dry for clipping. Its on an easier section but it takes too much out of me trying to hold it, clip off it, then move into the crux with wet hands.

So foiled again? Only time will tell. I am either going to have an amazing October or i will be very pissed off. Still, as i have just said to Doylo, if you had said to me at the start of the summer that i would have ticked two 8b+'s by the winter i would have laughed you out of the room!

Pic of Gaz on Dr Crimp


Dave Redpath said...

I'd be interested to know where you put your right foot? I couldn't link up that crux throwing with right hand. Second boulder prob much easier. Think some bluetack and a blow lamp needed for the pocket!

Adam Lincoln said...

Sometimes i keep low and dyno, other times i put it really high in pocket out right and egyptian. Not sure which is easiest yet... Hope this helps.

Dave Redpath said...

I was trying with toe out right with left toehook for the setup. I'm admitedly crap at go again lock moves. It would be nice to know Gaz's beta.