My recent weight loss and finger boarding is still continuing to surprise.
Now, whilst i am under no illusion i was close to the flash on Zeke the freak today, i did flash up to the crux throw, and tickle the hold. Now there is then another couple of tricky moves to get to the good break, and then the fall off-able eng 6a finish, but i was well pleased. If i had used my eventual sequence that i am using now, then things could have been different. Another thing is its more like a V9 bloc than a fr8b route. But in climbing you have to take positives from situations. I had a good couple of redpoints and one where i should have stuck the move but forgot a hand bump. Then conditions and skin went down hill. 8b in a day would have been unbelievable. But i will be more than happy with doing this old school test piece in two days.
Now Doyle stepped up to the plate, and despite conditions dispatched on his 5 th rp of the day and pretty much second day on the route. Not bad!
Even more impressive was the mule. Dogs up, does all the moves. Tries one or two things then pulls the rope and sends first rp, first day on it. That lad needs to try something that will tax him. He didn't even really have a sequence. He is off to Ceuse for a month now so hope he crushes.
Me? Well, hopefully Zeke next session. Polish of a few other bits and pieces at Rubicon, then i can move onto Beluga. Then that's really it for the crag. The Bastard isn't high on my list!
Need to try and get some good quality stamina training in over next 10 days so i am reasonably fit for my long weekend jaunt to Mallorca.
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