Midledge Spread In The Bag

It's satisfying when your trying and a project and take time off to train what it was you were lacking and come back and send it second go! I had been on Midledge Spread, a tough 8a+ at Malham for a few days. Kept getting to crux, and not doing the move due to lack of power endurance. So, i have a weekend in Wales training, and a few sessions at BoulderUk doing more power endurance. And today, it gets sent. First go of day i almost do it with my original sequence, but Jon fulwood showed me another way, and i got ot next go. Now, conditions were good today as opposed to other days i'd been on it but i don't know, think the training helped. I always thought i'd get through crux only to fall the the rest which is still a tricky 7c to the top. Instead i even changed my sequence and still had some to spare.

Happy now.

Only thing is, will be a new project tomorrow! Whats it to be though. I could consolodate 8a+ more, but stuff it, i feel i have some to spare so going to get on Magnetic Fields. A cool 8b that plays to my style. Boulder problem start. V7'ish, into a V8, into a french 7bish.

Bring it on!

Me on Midledge Spread

Long Weekend In Wales

I drove up to Wales on Saturday morning to meet up with Tyler who was staying at the Cattells's. We all headed out to the cave and met up with doyle. Conditions were not ideal and got worse and worse as day went on. Considering i have been climbing routes of late, i was still feeling pretty strong on the usual suspects. Trigger Cut and Rock Attrocity. Ty was trying to get the second ascent of Louis Armstrong whihc he got today (Monday). Sunday turned into a bit of a rest day as i was feeling spanked. Conditions were ok though, with a really strong wind. We drove upto the pass for a look at a few things to see if they were dry for next climbing day, which was today. Pretty good, just a tad moist. Today they were even better, but we could'nt really get going an ended up in the cave again. Ty dispatched Louis Armstrong, and i realised i should stick to my routes!

Here are some pics from the weekend.

Ty Repeating Louis Armstrong, 8a+/8b


Ty Repeating Louis Armstrong, 8a+/8b


The Pier


The Man, The Myth, The Legend

Bit Of a Plug

Bit of a plug for a friends new website. Most of you will know him as Irish Si

http://www.superkonduktor.com/

Rare Day Bouldering

Had a rare day bouldering yesterday. Was a bit hung over from my birthday weekend, so wasn't expecting much. Started off really bad. but got better. Went to Warton to do E-fix a newish 8a which i fancied. I felt horrible, but did nearly flash a 7b, which i did second go. Need to go back to E-fix feeling better!

Here is a picture of Sean I took on E-fix. He repeated it for the video camera also.



Then we did a tour round a few other crags. I managed a 7c+ in a few goes down at Woodwell. I also nearly repeated a 7c/+ i had done a few weeks early. (Vitruvian Man) Got to having my hand on top pretty much straight away but swung off. So not too bad. Here are a few pics of the sequence.

Crux Swing




Tricky last move


Sean trying problem

Some Earl Pics From A Few Weeks Ago

Just tweaked some over exposed skies on these pics, and look ok now. From a few weeks back. Sloping Beauty, 7b, Earl Crag, Yorkshire.

Setting up for crux throw


Sticking crux throw

Not Much New!

Well, been out to Malham and Kilnsey loads of late. Have a project at each now.

At Malham i am working on Midledge Spread, a really cool 8a+. Here are some pics. The first is the crux move for me. Hitting that move and going to the top is about 7c. Then you have a hard start to get you nicely tired!





Today i opened my account on Grooved Arete over at Kilnsey. Another 8a+, and it feels harder than Midledge for me. More power endurancey! I am going to need a tad more endurance to do it. Still, only been my first day on it, so it should come together. I also need a knee pad, which will make things a hell of a lot easier!

Ill keep you posted!

4 Days On

Well i am writing this a little broken. 4 hardish days on and i am tired.

It started off in the South Lakes bouldering with Doyle. Went to Shucks Lair, and lost much skin due to temps! Chris posted some pictues here.

http://doylosblog.blogspot.com/2008/05/how-many-rope-access-technicians-does.html

Then Friday i went to Kilnsey with Jordan to get a little fitter. Wanted to Flash Comedy, a classic 7c. Failed flash, climbed to top and did it first red point. Not great but in the bag.

Jordan made the first ascent since loss of hold off Massala Martyr. It used to get 8a+ but could possibly be 8b now. Jordan made it look very easy, but when i was to try it the next day, it was very very hard. V8 move at least of the deck, tricky climbing and another V8 at least move higher up. Off the list for me for now.

Saturday i went back to Kilnsey with Arran. He was keen to get on Massala Martyr. Success eluded him. Temps not great and obvious dificulty of the route meant he is leaving it alone for now. I tried to flash Pantomime, a 7b+ to the right of Comedy. Failed on flash, and then did it first red point. I personally thought it was as hard if not harder than Comedy. And so did the guy who went on it before me. Maybe i was tired....

Sunday was supposed to be back to Kilnsey, but rain thwarted us and so it was off to Malham. I wanted a project, and the three 8a+'s on the left of the crag were the ideal choices. I picked Mid Ledge Spread, as Arran was working this also. By the end of the day, i had done all the moves, and linked from just after the crux to the top clean. Maybe another day working then go for the red point. Or maybe ill feel less tired and get it next day on it..... (Wednesday)

Out for now.

Back From France

Well, what a waste of money that was. 5 days climbing, 4 days of rain. Couldn't get to the really good sectors like Tenessee. It started so well, with me doing an 8a (5.13b) first red point on my first day. Albeit a very soft one at that! See pictures i took of it below. My friend Nick trying it. He was so close.

My friends Jody and Patrick came down to visit, which was cool. I climbed a lot with those guys in America and they have been working in Germany for last month. Psyched for some Euro bolt clipping they planned on heading to Rodellar. Worst weather in Europe in years put paid to that. Oh well. It can only get better.

Rest of trip was millage. Onsighting lots if 7a's and 7a+'s. Few 7b's as well. All good training for my projects back home.

Some pictures of Nick on the very soft 8a Arnaque.com