Saturday, March 21, 2009

A Broken Heart

So today we went back to the cave again! For one supposed final session of crushage... Well, it all went to plan. I wanted to finish of Broken Heart. Which i did, after falling off the easy end bit again. Punt! With this new heel beta that Doyle worked out, if feels very soft V10. If Trigger Cut is V10 though, Broken Heart is V9. Its at least a full grade easier. Its all horses for courses though! So that means i now have a new project. The low start to Broken Heart. The Wire. V12. We shall see. But does mean move days in the cave.

On another note, i almost did Cave Life today, the classic V11 tour de back wall and left wall. Got through most of hard bit only to fail kicking left foot onto jug. As de rigour for the cave though, i did a shorter version starting from R/A jug, at a less meaty V9. All money in the bank though as Ted would say. Who incidentally is the stand in caretaker of the Pill Box for the next few weeks while Doyle is in Spain.

We also warmed up today on a couple of routes on the edge of the cave. Werrys Woof Woot and the left hand version. 7a+ and 7b respectively. First outdoor routes of the season. Not great considering i am off to Spain for 3 weeks in two weeks time.

Off to Malham tomorrow, for my 7th day on in 8 days. Hoping to finish off some projects at Malham over the next month that didn't get finished off last year. The imminent list is as follows.

The Maximum - 7c+
Connect 4 - 8a
Main Overhang - 8a
Overnite Sensation - 8a+
Conehead - 8a+

Once these have been polished off, i can move onto this years projects. Depending on how the above feel will determine this years list.

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